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List of grade milestones in rock climbing

Historic single pitch, multi-pitch and boulder climbs From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

List of grade milestones in rock climbing

In rock-climbing, a first free ascent (FFA) is the first redpoint, onsight or flash of a single-pitch, multi-pitch (incl. big wall) or bouldering climbing route that did not involve using aid equipment to help progression or resting — the ascent must thus be performed in either a sport, a traditional, or a free solo manner. First-free-ascents that set new grade milestones are important events in rock climbing history, and are listed below. While sport climbing has dominated overall grade milestones since the mid-1980s (i.e. are now the highest grades), milestones for modern traditional-climbing, free-solo-climbing, onsighted & flashed-ascents, are also listed.

Wolfgang Güllich set new "hardest-ever routes" multiple times

A route's grade is provisional until enough climbers have repeated the route to have a "consensus". At the highest grades, this can take years as few climbers are capable of repeating these routes. For example, in 2001, Realization was considered the world's first 9a+ (5.15a), however, the first repeat of the 1996 route Open Air [de], which only happened in 2008, suggested that it was possibly the first 9a+ (5.15a). Open Air has had no further repeats, and has had holds broken since 1996, whereas Realization has had many ascents and is thus a "consensus" 9a+. Therefore, where known, the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th ranked candidates are also chronicled.[1][2]

As of October 2024, the hardest single-pitch redpoint was at the grade of 9c (5.15d) for men and 9b+ (5.15c) for women. The hardest onsight was at the grade of 9a (5.14d) for men and 8c (5.14b) for women. The hardest boulder solved was at the boulder grade of V17 (9A) for men and V15/V16 (8C/8C+)  for women. The hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) redpoint was at the grade of 9a+ (5.15a). The hardest single-pitch free solo was at the grade of 8c (5.14b), and the hardest multi-pitch (or big wall) free solo was at 7c+ (5.13a).

Single-pitch routes

Summarize
Perspective

Redpointed by men

9c (5.15d):[a]

Thumb
Adam Ondra on Silence
  • Silence – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 3, 2017 – First ascent by Adam Ondra, who described it as "much harder than anything else" he had previously done, and cautiously suggested the 9c rating for the 45 m route.[5][6] Is unrepeated (January 2025).[7]
  • DNA [de] – Verdon Gorge (FRA) – April 29, 2022 – First ascent by Sébastien Bouin who proposed the grade of 9c, saying "Comparing this route to Bibliographie, Move, Beyond [Integral], it seems a step ahead", and "To choose 9c is to take a risk". Is unrepeated (January 2025).[8][9]
  • B.I.G. (also Project Big) – Flatanger Municipality (NOR) – September 20, 2023 – First ascent by Jakob Schubert who worked on it with Adam Ondra, and after consulting with him, proposed 9c saying it was "definitely harder" than Perfecto Mundo, a "benchmark" 9b+ route. Is unrepeated (January 2025).[10][11]

9b+ (5.15c):[b]

9b (5.15b):[c][d][e][f]

9a+ (5.15a):[g][h]

9a (5.14d):

Thumb
Alex Megos on Action Directe

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):[i]

8b+ (5.14a):[j]

Thumb
Climber nearing the top of Punks in the Gym 32 8b+ (5.14a)

8b (5.13d):[k]

8a+ (5.13c)[l]

Pre-sport era

The notable first ascents that set a new highest-grade prior to The Face were traditional climbing routes:

8a (5.13b)[m]

  • Grand Illusion – Sugar Loaf, Lake Tahoe, CA (US) – 1979 – First-ever consensus 8a (5.13b) in history, by Tony Yaniro.[13][41]
  • Cosmic Debris – Yosemite Valley, CA (US) – May, 1980 – Early 8a led by Bill Price.[53]
  • Sphinx Crack – South Platte, CO (US) – April, 1981 – Early 8a led by Steve Hong.[54]
  • 13 Boulevard du Vol – Rochers de Freyr, (BEL) – 1981 – Early consensus 8a (5.13b), by Arnould t'Kint.[13][41]

7c+ (5.13a)

  • The Phoenix – Yosemite, CA (US) – 1977 – Considered the first-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Ray Jardine (used his new cams).[55]
  • Le Toit – Baou de Quatre Ouro (FRA) – 1981 – Second-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.[41]
  • Le Haine – La Turbie (FRA) – March, 1981 – Third-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Patrick Berhault.[41]
  • Chimpanzodrome – Le Saussois (FRA) – April, 1981 – Fourth-ever consensus 7c+ (5.13a) in history, by Jean-Pierre Bouvier.[41]

7c (5.12d)

  • Psycho Roof – Eldorado, CO (US) – 1975 – Estimated as the first-ever 7c (5.12d) in history, by Steve Wunsch; only one ascent, due to large broken flake, and was possibly harder than 7c in 1975.[56][57]
  • The Pirate – Suicide Rock, CA – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by Tony Yaniro.[58]
  • Iron Cross – Shawangunks, NY – (US) – 1978 – Early 7c (5.12d) by John Bragg.[59][60]
  • Genesis – Eldorado, CO – (US) – 1979 May – Early 7c (5.12d) by Jim Collins.[61][54]
  • Nymphodalle – Les Calanques (FRA) – 1979 – Sometimes considered first-ever consensus 7c (5.12d) in history, by Patrick Edlinger.

7b+ (5.12c)

7b (5.12b)

  • English Hanging Gardens – Big Rock, Lake Perris, California, (US) – 1970 – Regraded as possible first 7b (5.12b) in history, by John Gosling.
  • Kansas City – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – One of the first-ever 5.12b/c climbs in history, by John Bragg.[13][44][62]
  • Constable's Overhang – Wilton, (ENG) – 1973 – Possible early 7b (5.12b), as is graded "hard" E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[63]
  • Fish Crack – Yosemite (US) – 1975 May – One of the first-ever 7b (5.12b) climbs in history, by Henry Barber.[64]

7a+ (5.12a)

Thumb
Thimble, the 1960s
  • Thimble – Needles, SD, (US) – 1961 – First-ever 7a+ (5.12a) in history, by John Gill. Free soloed.[13]
  • Macabre Roof – Ogden, Utah, (US) – 1967 – First-ever roped 7a+ (5.12a) in history, flashed by Greg Lowe.[65][66]
  • Orchrist – Almscliff, (ENG) – July 1973 – Early 7a+ (5.12a) as was graded E5 6b, by Hank Pasquill.[67]
  • The Throne – Shawangunks, NY (US) – 1973 – Very early 7a+ (5.12a) climb, led by John Stannard.[59]

7a (5.11d)

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Demon Rib – Black Rocks (ENG) – May 13, 1949 – Sometimes considered the first-ever lead at 6c (E3 5c) by Peter Harding.[13][69]
  • Schwager Talweg – Schrammsteine Saxon Switzerland (DEU) – August 31, 1952 – Even with shoulder stands at all three cruxes, 6c (Saxon VIIIc) free climbing was led by Harry Rost.[13][70]

6b+ (5.10d/11a):

  • Suicide Wall, Route 1 – Idwal Slabs Ogwyn Valley (WAL) –1945 – One of the first-ever 6b+ (E2 5c, 5.10d) leads by Chris Preston.[71]
  • Rebitsch-Spiegl (Pitch Two) – Fleischbank Wilder Kaiser (AUT) – June 20 1946 – Early 6b+ (UIAA VII) lead by Mathias Rebitsch.[72]

6b (5.10c):

  • Rostkante – Hauptwiesenstein Bielatel Saxon Switzerland, (DEU) –1922 – First consensus 6b lead (Saxon VIIIb, UIAA VII) by Hans Rost.[70][73]

6a+ (5.10b):

5b (5.8):

Redpointed by women

9b+ (5.15c)

9b (5.15b):[n]

9a+ (5.15a):

9a/9a+ :

9a (5.14d):[o][p]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Come Back – Val San Nicolò (ITA) – 1986 – First-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Luisa Iovane [fr].[13][79]
  • Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Second-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Christine Gambert [fr].[13][79]
  • Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1987 – Third-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Lynn Hill.[13][79]
  • Rêve de Papillon – Buoux (FRA) – 1988 – Fourth-ever female ascent of an 8a route, by Catherine Destivelle.[79]

7c+/8a (5.13a/b) :

Pre-sport era

The notable first female ascents that set a new highest-grade pre Fleur de Rocaille were traditional climbing routes:

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

7b (5.12b):

7a (5.11d):

Onsighted / Flashed by men

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

9a+ (5.15a):

  • Super Crackinette – Saint Léger (FRA) – 10 February 2018 – First-ever 9a+ flash (not onsight) in history, by Adam Ondra.[104]

9a (5.14d):

  • Southern Smoke Direct – Red River Gorge (USA) – 29 October 2012 – First-ever 9a flash (not onsight), by Adam Ondra.[105][106]
  • Estado Critico – Siurana (ESP) – 24 March 2013 – First-ever 9a onsight, by Alex Megos.[107]
  • Cabane au Canada – Rawyl (SUI) – 9 July 2013 – Second-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[108]
  • Il Domani – Baltzola (ESP) – 3 May 2014 – Third-ever 9a onsight, by Adam Ondra.[109]

8c+ (5.14c):

8c (5.14b):

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Massey Fergusson – Calanques (FRA) – 1995 – First-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de].[13][113]
  • Maldita María – Cuenca (ESP) – 1996 – Second-ever 8b+ onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de].[13]

8b (5.13d):

  • Liaisons Dangereuses – Les Calanques (Les Goudes), (FRA) – 1993 – First-ever 8b onsight, by Elie Chevieux [de][13]
  • Public Enemy – Cuenca, (ESP) – 1993 – Originally considered the first 8a+/8b onsight, by Stefan Glowacz, but consensus grade is now 8b.[111]

8a+ (5.13c):

(unknown)

8a (5.13b):

  • Samizdat – Cimai (FRA) – 1987 – First-ever 8a on-sight, by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr].[13][114]

7c+ (5.13a):

7c (5.12d):

7b+ (5.12c):

Onsighted / Flashed by women

With route beta on the internet, the distinction between an onsight (no prior beta) and a flash (had prior beta) is less relevant; it is recorded where noted.

8c (5.14b):[q]

8b+ (5.14a):[r][s]

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

Free-solo by men

8c (5.14b):

  • Panem et Circenses – Length: 15 metres (49 ft) – Arco (IT) – March 2021 – First-ever 8c free solo, by Alfredo Webber, aged 52.[132]

8b+ (5.14a):

8b (5.13d):

8a+ (5.13c):

8a (5.13b):

  • Revelations – Length: 15 meters – Raven Tor, Peak District (ENG) – 1985 – First-ever 8a free solo, by Antoine Le Menestrel [fr].[13]

7c (5.12d)

7b (5.12b)

7a+ (5.12a)

7a (5.11d):

  • Spider Line – Length: 16 meters – Joshua Tree, CA, (US) – February 1978 – First-ever free solo at 7a by John Yablonski.[138][139]

6c+ (5.11b/c):

  • Wall of Horrors – Length: 18 meters – Almscliff, (ENG) – 1961 – First-ever free solo at E3 6a by Allan Austin.[140]
  • Slip N Slide – Length: 8 meters – Peak District, (ENG) – 1976 – First-ever free solo at E6 6a by Ron Fawcett.[141]

6c (5.11a/b):

  • Western Front – Length: 13 meters – Almscliff (ENG) – July 9,1958 – One of the first-ever free solos at E3 5c, unrehearsed, by Allan Austin.[142]

Boulder problems

Summarize
Perspective

Solved by men

9A (V17):[t][u]

  • Alphane – Chironico (SUI) – April 6, 2022 – First ascent by Shawn Raboutou,[145][151] and first repeat by Aidan Roberts (October 2022); Roberts was silent on the grade having never climbed at V17, and having previously failed on Burden of Dreams.[152] William Bosi made a second repeat in November 2022, and after feeling that it was less of a challenge than his FA of Honey Badger 8C+, later felt it was still at 9A (V17).[153]

8C+ (V16):[v]

Thumb
Christian Core on Gioia [fr]
  • Gioia [fr] – Varazze (ITA) – 2008 – Considered the first-ever 8C+ (V16), by Christian Core.[156] First repeat in 2011 by Adam Ondra who proposed an 8C+ grade, describing the boulder as one of the hardest in the world, together with Terranova (see below).[157] Third ascent by Nalle Hukkataival in 2014, and Niccolo Ceria in 2020, who were silent on grade.[158][159] In 2015, it was discovered that new holds were chipped on the route, which Core tried to fix but not with complete success, leaving one new crimp that Core felt does lower the grade.[156] In 2021, a fifth repeat by Elias Lagnemma suggested a slightly lower grade of 8C/+ (using a kneepad).[146][160]
  • Hypnotized Minds – Rocky Mountain (US) – October 2010 – Considered one of the first-ever consensus 8C+ (V16) boulders, by Daniel Woods who initially proposed V15;[163] first repeat by Rustam Asatowitsch Gelmanow [de] (2016), and a second repeat by Dave Graham (2019), confirmed it as V16.[164][149]

8C (V15):[w][x]

8B+ (V14):[y]

Thumb
Dreamtime in Switzerland

8B (V13):

8A+ (V12):[z]

8A (V11):

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

  • Red Cross Overhang, or Gill Problem – Teton Range (US) – 1959 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a 7C (V9), by John Gill.[13][174]
  • Double Clutch – Flagstaff Mountain, Boulder, CO (US) – 1972 – Very early 7c (V8-V9) by Bob Williams.[180]
  • Speed of Light Dyno – Black Mountains (US) – 1979 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by John Long.[13]
  • L'Abbé Résina – Fontainebleau, (FRA) – 1983 – Considered an important early ascent of a 7C (V9), by Pierre Richard.[174]
Thumb
Climber on Midnight Lightning

7B+ (V8):

7B (V8):

7A (V6):

  • Le Joker – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1953 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V6 (7A), by Robert Paragot [fr].[13]

6A (V3):

  • Marie-Rose – Fontainebleau (FRA) – 1946 – Considered one of the first-ever ascents of a V3 (6A/6A+), by Rene Ferlet [fr].[13]

Solved by women

8C/8C+ (V15/16) :

8C (V15):

8B+ (V14):

8B (V13):[aa]

8A+ (V12):

8A (V11):

7C+/8A :

7C+ (V10):

7C (V9):

7B+ (V8):

Multi-pitch routes

Summarize
Perspective

Given the smaller number of entries for multi-pitch and big wall routes, the sections below combine milestones for overall and female ascents. In some cases (e.g. the Salathé Wall and Dawn Wall), the first free ascent was by a climbing pair alternating leads, and in such instances, the first individual to free climb all the pitches is also recorded.

Redpointed

9a+ (5.15a):

9a (5.14d):

  • Wu Wei (180-metres, 5-pitches) – Picco delle Aquile, Dolomites (ITA) – 16 August 2023 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 9a (5.14d), by Alessandro Zeni.[199][203]

8c+ (5.14c):

  • Lurgorri (250-metres, 6-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 13 August 2006 – First-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c+ (5.14c), by brothers Iker Pou [es] and Eneko Pou [es] .[199][204]
  • Nirwana (200-metres, 5-pitches) – Sonnwendwand, (AUT) – 9 September 2012 – Second-ever multi-pitch redpoint at at 8c+ (5.14c), by Alexander Huber.[199][205][206]

8c (5.14b):

Thumb
Climbers on the roof of Pan Aroma (and Bellavista) 8c (5.14b) on the Cima Ovest in the Dolomites.
  • Bellavista [it] (500-metres, 10-pitches) – Cima Ovest, Dolomites (ITA) – 18 July 2001 – First-ever big wall redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by Alexander Huber;[199][207] repeating the route in 2007 (to create Pan Aroma, also 8c), Huber found some key holds were "treated" from a 2005 attempt, and the crux was heavily lined with pegs, which had softened the grade to 8b/8b+.[208][209]
  • WoGü [it] (250-metres, 7-pitches) – Rätikon (SUI) – 26 July 2008 – Third-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by a 15-year old Adam Ondra;[199] created by Beat Kammerlander [de] who never fully freed the line.[212]
  • Orbayu (510-metres, 13-pitches) – Naranjo de Bulnes (ESP) – 2009 – Fourth-ever multi-pitch redpoint at 8c (5.14b), by brothers Iker Pou [es] and Eneko Pou [es] .[199][213]

8b+ (5.14a):

  • Neverending Story (450-metres, 11-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1991 – First multi-pitch at 8b+ (5.14a), by Beat Kammerlander [de].[199][214]
  • The Nose (870-metres, 31-pitches) – El Capitan, Yosemite (USA) – 1993 – Second multi-pitch at 5.14a (8b+),[199] by Lynn Hill (partnered by Brooke Sandahl); a major milestone in female rock climbing; in 1994, Hill led it all in under 24 hours;.[215]
  • After The Nose, the Alpine Trilogy [it] were the next 8b+ (5.14a) graded multi-pitch routes to be fully freed:[199]

8a+ (5.13c):

  • New Age (150-metres, 5-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1989 – First multi-pitch at 8a+ (5.13c), by Beat Kammerlander [de].[214]

8a (5.13b):

7c+ (5.13a):

  • Via Acacia (330-metres, 9-pitches) – 5th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1988 – First big wall free climb at 7c+ (5.13a), by Martin Scheel [de].[214]

7b+ (5.12c):

  • Regular Northwest Face (690-meters, 24 pitches) – Half Dome, Yosemite (USA) – 1976 – First big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Art Higbee and Jim Erickson.[220][221][218] 20 years later, a variation to the crux pitch was found to keep the entire route at 5.12a.
  • Hall of Mirrors (650-meters, 16 pitches) – Glacier Point, Yosemite (USA) –1980 – Second big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c) by Chris Cantwell, Scott Burk, Scott Cole.[222][54][218]
  • Amarcord (400-metres, 9-pitches) – 7th Kirlichspitze, Rätikon (SUI) – 1984 – Third big wall free climb at 7b+ (5.12c), by Martin Scheel [de].[214]

Free-soloed

7c+ (5.13a):

Thumb
Alex Honnold's 2017 free solo of Freerider (5.13a, 7c+), El Capitan

7b+ (5.12c):

Thumb
The famous "fish" feature on The Fish Route [de], Marmolada

7b (5.12b):

7a+ (5.12a):

6c+ (5.11b/c):

See also

Notes

  1. Excluded from 9c: Alex Megos's Bibliographie (2020) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade by Stefano Ghisolfi (that Megos agreed with), and Sean Bailey's (2020) further confirmation that it is at 9b+ (it ranks as the fifth-ever 9b+ in history).[3][4]
  2. Excluded from 9b+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Chilam Balam [fr] (2003), was an unconfirmed and disputed first ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9b+ (5.15c) (the world's first-ever 9b+), which Adam Ondra regraded to a "low end" 5.15b (9b) in 2008, and which was further downgraded by later repeaters to a consensus of "hard 9a+ or 9a+/b".[12]
  3. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga,[22][23][24] and further downgraded to 9a by Dani Moreno in 2023.[25]
  4. Excluded from 9b: Dani Andrada [fr]'s Delincuente Natural (2008) is excluded post its 2021 downgrade to 9a by Jonathan Flor, who made the first repeat.[26]
  5. Excluded from 9b: Fred Rouhling's Akira (1995) is excluded post its 2020 downgrade to 9a by Seb Bouin and Lucien Martinez.[27]
  6. Not included in 9b: Tommy Caldwell's Flex Luthor (2003) is not included as Matty Hong's 2021 upgrade to 9b included the breaking of over a dozen handholds and twenty footholds, so much so that Hong could not opine on whether it was the same route Caldwell climbed, and Caldwell himself intervened to say that it was not as hard as Jumbo Love.[28][29] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the fourth ascent and downgraded it to 9a+ (5.15a)[30]
  7. Excluded from 9a+: Alexander Huber's Weiße Rose (1994) was graded 8c+ but Adam Ondra's 2008 repeat estimated it at 9a (and potentially 9a+, which would have made it the world first-ever 9a+), however, Jakob Schubert's 2020 repeat confirmed it 9a.[35]
  8. Excluded from 9a+: Bernabè Fernandez [es]'s Orujo (1998), was an unconfirmed and disputed ascent that Fernandez proposed at 9a+ (5.15a) (the world's first-ever 9a+ at the time), which has not been repeated due to concerns over manufacturing of holds.[36][37]
  9. Not included in 8c:Jerry Moffatt's Stone Love (1988), is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8c,[41] however, its consensus grade is considered at 8b+.[46]
  10. Not included in 8b+: Wolfgang Güllich's Dead Line (1986) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's third-ever 8b+,[41] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8b.[47]
  11. Not included in 8b: Martin Scheel [de]'s Vuelo a Ciegas Direct (trans: Blind Fight) which was Spain's first 8b and sometimes mistaken as being climbed in 1984,[13] whereas Scheel did the first ascent in 1986.[49]
  12. Not included in 8a+: Dave Cuthbertson's traditional climb Requiem (1983) is listed in some climbing databases as the world's second-ever 8a+,[41] however, its consensus grade is now closer to 8a (or E8 6b in the English traditional grading system).[51]
  13. Not included in 8a: Peter Cleveland's Phlogiston (1977) at Devil's Lake is sometimes proposed as a first 8a (5.13b),[13] but it was clarified as a top rope.[52]
  14. Excluded from 9b: Laura Rogora's 2020 ascent of Dani Andrada [fr]'s Ali Hulk Sit Start Extension (2007),[76] is excluded post its 2021 downgrade from 9b to 9a+/b by Alex Garriga.[22][23]
  15. Excluded from 9a: Sasha Digiulian's 2012 ascent of Era Vella, which was at the time considered the fourth-ever female ascent of a 9a.[92] Era Vella has since been downgraded to 8c+/9a in the main climbing databases.[93]
  16. Not included in 9a: Alizée Dufraisse's 2012 ascent of La Reina Mora, which is sometimes considered as being 9a (thus the fourth-ever female 9a), but the climbing databases regard La Reina Mora as 8c+/9a.[94]
  17. Excluded from 8c:Kajsa Rosén [cs]'s onsight of T-1 Full Equip in March 2016 was considered a possible first female 8c onsght,[119] but the consensus grade was settled at 8b+ in 2021.[120][121]
  18. Not included in 8b+: Katie Brown's onsight of Omaha Beach in 1999 is sometimes mistakenly classed as an 8b+ onsight,[126] however, several holds had broken from the sandstone route since Brown's onsight, and the original route was not considered an 8b+ (5.14a)-graded route.[127][128]
  19. Not included in 8b+:Charlotte Durif [fr] lists a number of 8b+ onsights in her personal database: Spider cochon (2008), Ultime démence (2009), Basse température (2009) and Snails paradise (July 2010), that would rank as the earliest 8b+ female onsights,[126] however, they have not been verified in climbing media (unlike Les Rois du Pétrole in 2010).[129]
  20. Excluded from V17: Charles Albert's No Kpote Only (2019) was proposed at V17 but was downgraded by the first and second repeaters, Ryohei Kameyama (to V16 in 2020) and Nicolas Pelorson respectively (to V15 in 2020).[143]
  21. Not included in V17: Simon Lorenzi's Soudain Seul (2021), proposed at V17 but repeated by Nicolas Pelorson (2021) who felt it was V16 saying "V17 is impossible for Soudain Seul because you do a V12 before a V14/15"; a second repeat by Camille Coudert (2022) upheld the V17 grade, however, it remains listed as V16 or V16/V17 in the main climbing databases (e.g thecrag).[144][145]
  22. Excluded from 8C+: Dai Koyamada's The Wheel of Life (2004), once considered the first 8C+ but since downgraded to 8C (V15); it links several boulder problems over 68 moves and is now regarded as more a sport climbing route, with grade of 9a (5.14d).[155]
  23. Not included in V15: Markus Bock [de]'s Gossip (April 2002) was proposed by Bock at 8B+ (V14) but later revised upwards by Bock to 8C (V15),[167] however, a first repeat by John Gaskins disputed the grade and felt it was closer to 8B+ (V14); led to a very acrimonious public exchange with Bock.[168][169][170]
  24. Not included in V15: Klem Loskot's Emotional Landscapes SS (November 2002), was originally proposed by Loskot at 8B+ (V14), and Martin Moser's 2004 repeat was silent on the grade (he used different beta), however, Nalle Hukkataival's second repeat in 2014 (who also used different beta) suggested a possible 8C (V15), one of the world's first;[171] currently listed at 8B+/C (note the standing start is 8A+).[172]
  25. Excluded from V14: Werner Thom's Zerberus (1997), was downgraded to V13 (8B) on its repeat by Thomas Lindinger in 2017.[175]
  26. Excluded from V12: Jacky Godoffe [it]'s Partenaire Particulier (1987), which was considered at 8A+ (V12),[13] but has since been regraded to 8A (V11) in the main climbing databases.
  27. Not included in V13: Therese Johansen's ascent of Bernd Zangerl [fr]'s Propaganda (May 2011) would have ranked as the third-ever female ascent of a V13 (8B), but she downgraded the boulder herself to hard V12 or maybe V13 after climbing it.[193]

References

External links

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