Angela Eiter
Austrian professional climber From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Angela "Angy" Eiter (born 27 January 1986 in Arzl im Pitztal) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specialises in competition climbing and sport climbing. In competition lead climbing, she won three IFSC World Cups in a row (2004–2006), and four IFSC World Championships. In 2011, she achieved her 25th win in World Cup and her 42nd podium. She is also one of the strongest sport climbers in the world, and in 2017, became the first-ever female in history to climb a 9b (5.15b) route, La Planta de Shiva. In 2020, she became the first-ever female in history to complete the first free ascent (FFA) of a 9b (5.15b) route, Madame Ching.
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| Nickname | Angy | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Nationality | Austrian | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 27 January 1986 Arzl im Pitztal, Austria | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Occupation | Professional rock climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 154 cm (5 ft 1 in) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 46 kg (101 lb) | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Website | angelaeiter | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| First ascents |
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Medal record
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| Updated on 8 May 2013 | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career
Summarize
Perspective
Competition climbing
Eiter started climbing at age eleven when her school offered her the chance to try the sport. Her parents accompanied her to the climbing gym in Imst. At fifteen, she climbed her first indoor 8a (5.13b). In 2002, having reached the age of sixteen, she began to participate in the World Cup lead climbing.
In 2003, she won her first Cup race at Aprica. Since then she has won three World Cups in a row: in 2004,[1] in 2005, winning eight out of nine events[2] and in 2006, winning seven out of ten events.[3] She won four world championships in the competition lead climbing specialty: the 2005 edition in Munich,[4] the 2007 edition in Avilés,[5] the 2011 edition in Arco,[6] and the 2012 edition in Paris.[7]
For her achievements, she was awarded the La Sportiva Competition Award in 2006.[8]
In September 2008, during the third round of the World Cup in Bern, she had a serious accident damaging her left shoulder, for which she underwent arthroscopic surgery.[9] She had to prematurely end the season and deal with nine months' rehabilitation. She started to compete the following July at the Climbing World Championship 2009 in Qinghai.
Rock climbing
On September 6, 2014, Eiter climbed the 9a (5.14d) route Hades at Nassereith, Austria. She is the sixth woman to climb this grade or higher.[10][11] On October 22, 2017, she climbed La Planta de Shiva (Villanueva del Rosario, Spain), widely considered to be a 9b (5.15b) route, becoming the world's first-ever female to climb at grade.[12][13] In 2020, she did the first free ascent (FFA) of Madame Ching (which she named after Ching Shih) in Imst, Austria, and suggested the grade of 9b (5.15b) for it, which would make it the world's first-ever female FFA at that grade.[14][15]
Rankings
Climbing World Cup
| Discipline | 2002 | 2003 | 2004 | 2005 | 2006 | 2007 | 2008 | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 18 | 3 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 13 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 35 |
| Bouldering | - | - | - | - | 15 | 33 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | - | - | - | - | 1 | 2 | - | - | - | - | - |
Climbing World Championships
| Discipline | 2003 | 2005 | 2007 | 2009 | 2011 | 2012 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 7 | 1 | 1 | 5 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | - | - | 8 | - | - | - |
Climbing European Championships
| Discipline | 2004 | 2006 | 2010 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 6 | 5 | 1 |
Number of medals in the Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2002 | 0 | |||
| 2003 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2004 | 4 | 1 | 5 | |
| 2005 | 8 | 1 | 9 | |
| 2006 | 7 | 1 | 1 | 9 |
| 2007 | 2 | 3 | 5 | |
| 2008 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2009 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2010 | 2 | 2 | ||
| 2011 | 2 | 1 | 1 | 4 |
| Total | 25 | 13 | 4 | 42 |
Notable ascents
Redpointed routes
9b (5.15b):
- La Planta de Shiva - Villanueva del Rosario (ESP) - October 22, 2017 - World's first-ever female ascent of a 9b route.[12][13]
- Madame Ching - Tyrol (AUT) - December 2020 - World's first-ever new 9b route created by a female.[18]
9a (5.14d):
8c+ (5.14c):
8c (5.14b):
Onsighted routes
8b (5.13d):
Boulder problems
8B (V13):
See also
References
External links
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