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Matthew Jacob Hong (born September 4, 1991) is an American rock climber, filmmaker and photographer. In 2018, he became the fourth American to climb a route graded at 5.15b (9b).[2] As a filmmaker, he directed the 2017 film Break on Through, which documented Margo Hayes completing the first-ever female ascent of a 9a+ (5.15a) graded sport climbing route, and is featured on the Reel Rock Film Tour.[3]
 Hong in 2019 | |
| Personal information | |
|---|---|
| Born | 4 September 1991[1] Boulder, Colorado, United States |
| Education | University of Colorado Boulder |
| Occupation(s) | Rock climber, film director, photographer |
| Climbing career | |
| Highest grade | |
| Known for | Becoming the fourth American climber to send a 5.15b (9b) route |
Hong was born in Boulder, Colorado in 1991. He began climbing at an early age, brought to climbing spots in Rifle Canyon as a baby by his father Steve Hong and mother Karin Budding, who were both pioneering rock climbers.[4] He joined a climbing team in middle school and began climbing more seriously at age 15, when he climbed his first 5.13d (8b) and 5.14a (8b+) routes in Rifle.[5]
After earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts in Film Production at the University of Colorado Boulder,[6] Hong climbed his first 5.15a (9a+) route, Papichulo 5.15a (9a+) in Oliana, Spain, in March 2016.[5]
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Sport climbing
In 2011, Hong recorded the first ascent of Bad Girls Club in Rifle[7] and in 2015, he bolted and completed his first route, La Cucaracha in Wicked Cave, also in Rifle.[8]
In May 2018, he climbed the 5.15b (9b) Fight or Flight in Oliana, Spain, becoming the fourth American to climb the grade[2] after Chris Sharma, Ethan Pringle and Daniel Woods.[9]
In October 2021, Hong completed the second-ever ascent of Flex Luthor, first sent by Tommy Caldwell in 2003. Hong suggested the grade be revised to 5.15b (9b) from 5.15a (9a+) after multiple holds broke making the climb harder.[10][11] In November 2022, Jonathan Siegrist made the third repeat of Flex Luthor and downgraded it back to 5.15a (9a+).[12]
In May 2023, Hong made the 20th ascent of Sharma's 2001 route, Realization/Biographie 9a+ (5.15a), in Ceuse.[13]
Competition climbing
Hong competed at IFSC Climbing World Youth Championships in 2009 and 2010 in the Male Youth Junior (age 17–19) category.[14] He has also competed in the senior climbing circuit, making the final at the 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup event in Boulder, finishing sixth.[15]
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Redpoint
- 5.15b (9b)
- Fight or Flight, Oliana, Spain, 2018
First ascent
- 5.14d (9a)
- Bad Girls Club, Rifle, Colorado, 2011
- Planet Garbage (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2014
- Stocking Stuffer (5.14d), Rifle, Colorado, 2017
- 5.14c (8c+)
- La Cucaracha, Rifle, Colorado, 2015
- Apple Juice Flood, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
- Sweet Tooth, Red River Gorge, Kentucky, 2016
Onsight
- 5.13a (7c+)
- Logical Progression, El Gigante, Mexico
- 5.14b (8c)
- Mind Control, Oliana, Catalunya
Bouldering
- V15 (8C)
- Warrior Up, Lincoln Lake, Colorado, 2012
- Dreamtime, Ticino, Switzerland, 2020
Competition climbing
- Sixth Place, 2011 IFSC Lead World Cup, Boulder CO
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- Break on Through (2017), director, featured on Reel Rock 12[17]
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