戴安娜牛排

戴安娜牛排
類型	主菜
起源地	英國
發明者	可能是巴爾托洛梅奧·卡爾代羅尼或貝尼亞米諾·斯基亞翁和路易吉·夸利諾
主要成分	牛排

戴安娜牛排（英語：Steak Diane）是一道由煎牛排配以醬汁的菜餚。最初是在餐桌旁現場烹飪（英語：Gueridon service）^[1]，有時會焰燒。它很可能是在1930年代的倫敦發明的。從1940年代到60年代，它是所謂「歐陸菜系」的標準菜品^[2]^[3]^[4]^[5]，現在被認為是復古菜。^[6]^[7]^[8]

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歷史

「戴安娜牛排」並不出現在法餐的經典菜譜中^[9]；它很可能是在1930年代的倫敦發明的^[10]，儘管有一種說法認為是在比利時的奧斯坦德。^[11]

戴安娜這個名字源自羅馬狩獵女神狄阿娜，曾用於各種與狩獵相關的食物^[12]，1914年就有記載的「戴安娜鹿肉排」雖然也是煎炒和焰燒，但其醬汁和配料中包含水果，與後來的戴安娜牛排食譜不同。^[13]

戴安娜牛排在第二次世界大戰前就已為人所知。1938年的一份倫敦報紙報道了聖莫里茨的巴德呂特皇宮酒店（英語：Badrutt's Palace Hotel）提供「香檳和戴安娜牛排至午夜」。^[14]1955年有報道稱，1930年代梅費爾夸利諾餐廳（英語：Quaglino's）的主廚巴爾托洛梅奧·卡爾代羅尼推廣了「當時罕見的戴安娜牛排，他親自為當時的威爾斯親王（後來的溫莎公爵）烹製這道他最喜歡的菜」。^[10]事實上，卡爾代羅尼在1988年聲稱是他發明了這道菜。^[15]^[16]根據1957年的一篇文章，路易斯·蒙巴頓在1930年代是倫敦巴黎咖啡館（英語：Café de Paris, London）的常客，「幾乎總是點同樣的晚餐——18個生蚝和戴安娜牛排」。^[17]

澳大利亞到1940年便有這道菜，當時一篇關於悉尼羅馬諾餐廳的文章提到它是該餐廳的招牌菜。羅馬諾的領班（英語：Maître d'hôtel）托尼·克萊里奇說他1938年在倫敦梅菲爾的托尼燒烤餐廳時發明了這道菜，並以戴安娜·曼納斯的名字命名。^[18]^[19]克萊里奇可能是從夏爾·加洛-塞爾瓦那裏學到這道菜的，塞爾瓦曾在倫敦的夸利諾餐廳工作。^[19]^[20]^[21]

1940年這道菜也已經出現在美國^[22]^[23]，儘管當時並不廣為人知。^[24]40年代後期，戴安娜牛排經常出現在受紐約社交界（英語：Café society）歡迎的餐廳菜單上，可能是桌邊焰燒菜品潮流的一部分。^[25]德雷克酒店（英語：Drake Hotel (New York City)）和謝里-尼德蘭酒店（英語：The Sherry-Netherland）的餐廳以及殖民地（英語：The Colony (restaurant)）^[26]^[27]、21俱樂部和亭樓餐廳（英語：Le Pavillon (Henri Soulé restaurant)）都供應這道菜。^[7]^[26]在紐約，這道菜通常被認為是德雷克酒店的領班貝尼亞米諾·斯基亞翁（英語：Beniamino Schiavon）（外號「德雷克的尼諾」）所發明的。^[5]1968年有人說斯基亞翁與路易吉·夸利諾在比利時奧斯坦德的海灘餐廳發明了這道菜，並以一位「1920年代的美人」^[11]或「1920年代歐洲上流社會的一位顯赫女士」的名字命名。^[28]在德雷克酒店，它被稱為「尼諾牛排」。^[29]2017年，又有人提出里約熱內盧的科帕卡瓦納宮酒店是戴安娜牛排的發明者。^[19]

食譜

戴安娜牛排類似於黑椒牛排（英語：Steak au poivre）。^[30]早期的食譜材料很少：牛排、黃油、辣醬油、胡椒、鹽和切碎的歐芹^[23]，可能還有蒜。^[31]牛排切薄或拍薄以便快速烹飪，在調味的黃油和辣醬油中煎炒，然後撒上歐芹裝飾。當時並不焰燒。後來的美國版本更加複雜：1953年的三個紐約食譜添加了白蘭地、雪利酒、蝦夷蔥、干芥末和/或檸檬汁。只有一個食譜明確要求火焰烹調：醬汁用白蘭地、干雪利酒或馬德拉酒點火，然後澆在牛排上。^[27]一些較新的食譜在醬汁中加入奶油^[32]^[33]或蘑菇^[34]或兩者都加。^[35]其他的則更類似於較早的食譜。^[36]

另見

週日烤肉

參考文獻

[1]
Livio Borra, letter to the editor, The Times, 1958-07-26, p. 7
[2]
Max Jacobson, "Blast from a tasty past", Los Angeles Times, March 26, 1998 [1]: "steak Diane and all the other Continental dishes an up-to-date foodie would be embarrassed to admit knowing of"
[3]
Lobel's Culinary Club, August 17, 2012 [2]: "Steak Diane is among those popular dishes in ubiquitous cosmopolitan, Continental-style restaurants of the 1950s and 』60s that combined high style with leather banquettes, white-linen table cloths and dishes of American and European influences, a bit of theater and dramatic preparation."
[4]
Mark R. Vogel, "Diana: The Legacy of the Huntress", FoodReference [3]: "One thing is for sure. Steak Diane was the rage in the 50s and early 60s, especially in New York."
[5]
Pierre Franey, "60-Minute Gourmet; Steak Diane", The New York Times, January 31, 1979 [4]
[6]
Florence Fabricant, "New Wave in the East River: David Burke", The New York Times November 9, 1988, characterizes it as "retro"
[7]
Leah Koenig, "Lost Foods of New York City: Steak Diane", Politico, March 14, 2012 [5]: "Lost Foods of New York City is a column that celebrates the food and drink that once fed the city, but have disappeared.... America’s collective obsession with all things mid-century New York City is back in full martini-slinging force. What better time, then, to celebrate steak Diane—a dish so quintessentially retro-glamorous, it might as well be called steak Don Draper."
[8]
Jan Aaron, 101 Great Choices: Washington DC, Part 3, p. 76
[9]
Louis Saulnier, Le Répertoire de la Cuisine（英語：Le Répertoire de la Cuisine）, 1914
[10]
"A Gourmet's Guide", The Sketch, 1955-04-20, pp. 54–55
[11]
"Beniamino Schiavon is Dead; Known as Mr. Nino of the Drake", The New York Times, November 19, 1968, p. 47
[12]
Larousse Gastronomique, 1st edition "Oeufs à la Diane", with purée of game; Bécasse (woodcock) à la Diane; etc.; Larousse Gastronomique, 2001 edition, p. 416; Sauce Diane, a sauce poivrade（英語：Sauce poivrade） with cream, truffle, and hard-boiled egg white served with venison in Escoffier's Guide Culinaire（英語：Le guide culinaire） (1907)
[13]
A. C. Hoff, ed., Steaks, Chops and Fancy Egg Dishes, International Cooking Library, International Publishing Co., 1914, p. 20 full text
[14]
"Ski Resort in Summer", The Weekly Dispatch, 1938-08-07, p. 2
[15]
"Meo is brought to book at last", "The Times Diary/PHS", The Times, April 11, 1978, p. 16 (column 4, bottom)
[16]
Caterer & Hotelkeeper 179:53 (1988)
[17]
"It Was Fun While it Lasted", The Sketch, 1957-12-04, p. 18
[18]
"Mayfair", "Heard here and There", Sydney Morning Herald, February 29, 1940, p. 19
[19]
"1939 Steak Diane introduced to Australia", Jan O'Connell, A Timeline of Australian Food: from mutton to MasterChef, 2017, ISBN 1742235344, as quoted on the Australian food history timeline web site
[20]
"Former Host to Royalty Here to Manage Romano's", Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga), May 4, 1951, p. 1
[21]
The Atlantic Monthly, 159:274 (1937)
[22]
Spécialités de la Maison. American Friends of France. 1940.
[23]
Morris, Charlotte Sidle. Favorite Recipes of Famous Musicians. 1941: 38.
[24]
Muir, Helen. "Very Truly Yours", Miami Herald, 1942-03-21, p. 5
[25]
John Fuller, Guéridon and Lamp Cookery: A Complete Guide to Side-table and Flambé Service, 1964, p. 69
[26]
Arthur Schwartz, "21's Steak Diane",[6]archived quoting from Arthur Schwartz, New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes, 2008
[27]
Nickerson, Jane. Steak Worthy of the Name. New York Times Magazine. January 25, 1953: 32. also quoted in Olver, Lynne. Steak Diane. The Food Timeline. 2000.
[28]
Grace Glueck, "Hotel gives fête for its Maître D'", The New York Times, October 26, 1967, p. 50
[29]
Stanley Turkel, Great American Hotel Architects, 2019, ISBN 1728306892, p. 311
[30]
Mark Bittman, "The Minimalist: A Tender Celebration", The New York Times, 2006-02-08 full text
[31]
"Tony's famous steak Diane", Australian Women's Weekly, 1954-10-20, p. 74
[32]
"Steak Diane for Two", Cooking, The New York Times. Retrieved 2022-05-04
[33]
"Steak Diane", BBC Good Food. Retrieved 2022-05-04
[34]
Patten, Marguerite. Cooking for Two. London: Hamlyn. 1982: 47. ISBN 978-0-60-032273-3. and Paré, Jean. Company's Coming: Main Courses. Edmonton: Company's Coming. 1989: 59. ISBN 978-0-96-933221-3.
[35]
Lagasse, Emeril. Emeril's Delmonico: A Restaurant With a Past. New York: William Morrow. 2005: 172. ISBN 978-0-06-074046-7.
[36]
"Steak Diane", Cooked. Retrieved 2022-05-04

[1] [1]
Livio Borra, letter to the editor, The Times, 1958-07-26, p. 7

[2] [2]
Max Jacobson, "Blast from a tasty past", Los Angeles Times, March 26, 1998 [1]: "steak Diane and all the other Continental dishes an up-to-date foodie would be embarrassed to admit knowing of"

[3] [3]
Lobel's Culinary Club, August 17, 2012 [2]: "Steak Diane is among those popular dishes in ubiquitous cosmopolitan, Continental-style restaurants of the 1950s and 』60s that combined high style with leather banquettes, white-linen table cloths and dishes of American and European influences, a bit of theater and dramatic preparation."

[vogel-4] [4]
Mark R. Vogel, "Diana: The Legacy of the Huntress", FoodReference [3]: "One thing is for sure. Steak Diane was the rage in the 50s and early 60s, especially in New York."

[franey-5] [5]
Pierre Franey, "60-Minute Gourmet; Steak Diane", The New York Times, January 31, 1979 [4]

[6] [6]
Florence Fabricant, "New Wave in the East River: David Burke", The New York Times November 9, 1988, characterizes it as "retro"

[koenig-7] [7]
Leah Koenig, "Lost Foods of New York City: Steak Diane", Politico, March 14, 2012 [5]: "Lost Foods of New York City is a column that celebrates the food and drink that once fed the city, but have disappeared.... America’s collective obsession with all things mid-century New York City is back in full martini-slinging force. What better time, then, to celebrate steak Diane—a dish so quintessentially retro-glamorous, it might as well be called steak Don Draper."

[8] [8]
Jan Aaron, 101 Great Choices: Washington DC, Part 3, p. 76

[9] [9]
Louis Saulnier, Le Répertoire de la Cuisine（英語：Le Répertoire de la Cuisine）, 1914

[sketch-10] [10]
"A Gourmet's Guide", The Sketch, 1955-04-20, pp. 54–55

[nyt-11] [11]
"Beniamino Schiavon is Dead; Known as Mr. Nino of the Drake", The New York Times, November 19, 1968, p. 47

[12] [12]
Larousse Gastronomique, 1st edition "Oeufs à la Diane", with purée of game; Bécasse (woodcock) à la Diane; etc.; Larousse Gastronomique, 2001 edition, p. 416; Sauce Diane, a sauce poivrade（英語：Sauce poivrade） with cream, truffle, and hard-boiled egg white served with venison in Escoffier's Guide Culinaire（英語：Le guide culinaire） (1907)

[13] [13]
A. C. Hoff, ed., Steaks, Chops and Fancy Egg Dishes, International Cooking Library, International Publishing Co., 1914, p. 20 full text

[14] [14]
"Ski Resort in Summer", The Weekly Dispatch, 1938-08-07, p. 2

[15] [15]
"Meo is brought to book at last", "The Times Diary/PHS", The Times, April 11, 1978, p. 16 (column 4, bottom)

[16] [16]
Caterer & Hotelkeeper 179:53 (1988)

[17] [17]
"It Was Fun While it Lasted", The Sketch, 1957-12-04, p. 18

[18] [18]
"Mayfair", "Heard here and There", Sydney Morning Herald, February 29, 1940, p. 19

[aft-19] [19]
"1939 Steak Diane introduced to Australia", Jan O'Connell, A Timeline of Australian Food: from mutton to MasterChef, 2017, ISBN 1742235344, as quoted on the Australian food history timeline web site

[20] [20]
"Former Host to Royalty Here to Manage Romano's", Daily Advertiser (Wagga Wagga), May 4, 1951, p. 1

[21] [21]
The Atlantic Monthly, 159:274 (1937)

[22] [22]
Spécialités de la Maison. American Friends of France. 1940.

[:0-23] [23]
Morris, Charlotte Sidle. Favorite Recipes of Famous Musicians. 1941: 38.

[24] [24]
Muir, Helen. "Very Truly Yours", Miami Herald, 1942-03-21, p. 5

[25] [25]
John Fuller, Guéridon and Lamp Cookery: A Complete Guide to Side-table and Flambé Service, 1964, p. 69

[21C-26] [26]
Arthur Schwartz, "21's Steak Diane",[6]archived quoting from Arthur Schwartz, New York City Food: An Opinionated History and More Than 100 Legendary Recipes, 2008

[nick-27] [27]
Nickerson, Jane. Steak Worthy of the Name. New York Times Magazine. January 25, 1953: 32. also quoted in Olver, Lynne. Steak Diane. The Food Timeline. 2000.

[fete-28] [28]
Grace Glueck, "Hotel gives fête for its Maître D'", The New York Times, October 26, 1967, p. 50

[29] [29]
Stanley Turkel, Great American Hotel Architects, 2019, ISBN 1728306892, p. 311

[30] [30]
Mark Bittman, "The Minimalist: A Tender Celebration", The New York Times, 2006-02-08 full text

[31] [31]
"Tony's famous steak Diane", Australian Women's Weekly, 1954-10-20, p. 74

[32] [32]
"Steak Diane for Two", Cooking, The New York Times. Retrieved 2022-05-04

[33] [33]
"Steak Diane", BBC Good Food. Retrieved 2022-05-04

[34] [34]
Patten, Marguerite. Cooking for Two. London: Hamlyn. 1982: 47. ISBN 978-0-60-032273-3. and Paré, Jean. Company's Coming: Main Courses. Edmonton: Company's Coming. 1989: 59. ISBN 978-0-96-933221-3.

[35] [35]
Lagasse, Emeril. Emeril's Delmonico: A Restaurant With a Past. New York: William Morrow. 2005: 172. ISBN 978-0-06-074046-7.

[36] [36]
"Steak Diane", Cooked. Retrieved 2022-05-04

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