康瓦尔馅饼

康沃尔馅饼（康瓦尔语：Pasti, 英语：Cornish pasty）^[1]是与英国康沃尔有关的传统烤制肉馅饼。圆形酥皮上包入生肉和蔬菜做的馅料，对折起来做成半圆形饺子状，饼皮边缘打折封好后烘烤。

传统的康沃尔肉馅饼馅料有：牛肉、马铃薯丝或马铃薯块、芜菁甘蓝（也叫黄芜菁或"rutabaga"，在康沃尔地区称作芜菁）和洋葱，以盐和胡椒调味后烤制。至今，已经成为以康沃尔命名的一道名菜，也是公认的国民食物。馅饼有各种馅料，一些店铺也以贩卖多种口味的馅饼闻名。

尽管有很多古文件和小说都有相关纪录，但起源仍然不明。到各地采矿的康沃尔的矿工们，让这道菜成为全球知名的菜肴，而在澳洲、美国、阿根廷、墨西哥、阿尔斯特等，各地都有变化版的康沃尔肉馅饼。

原料

历史

虽然现在这道菜名字跟康沃尔关系密切，但其确切起源仍然不明。英语中的“pasty”这个字是由中世纪法文演变而来（paste，出自拉丁文pasta^[2]），意指以鹿肉、鲑鱼或其他肉类、蔬菜或干酪填料的的派，不用容器盛装烘烤。^[3]肉馅饼一直以来都没有在食谱书上缺席。例如：《Le Viandier》（古法文）最早的版本可追溯到1300年左右，记载了多种肉馅饼食谱。^[4]1393年的《Le Menagier de Paris》纪载著鹿肉、小牛肉、牛或羊肉为材料的馅饼（pasté）食谱^[5]。

其他关于肉馅饼的纪录还有：13世纪由亨利三世(1207–1272)颁布一项规定，大雅茅斯镇每年必须缴交“100条鲱鱼烤成的24个肉馅饼”给诺里奇的地方官员，地方官员送给东卡尔顿大宅主人后再转交给国王^[6]。13世纪的编年史家马修·帕里斯，记录了圣奥尔本斯修道院的僧侣有“以鲜肉馅饼为食的习俗”^[7]。1465年，约克大主教暨大法官（archbishop of York and chancellor of England）乔治·奈维尔（George Neville）的就职宴会上，供应了5,500个鹿肉馅饼^[8]。皇室成员也吃过这种馅饼，一封面包师写给亨利八世第三任妻子珍·西摩（1508–1537）的信写著：“……希望这馅饼送达时状态比上次的还好……”^[9]。17世纪中叶，塞缪尔·皮普斯在日记里多次出现肉馅饼的相关纪录，例如：“在威廉·潘爵士家用餐……一份鹿肉馅饼闻起来臭得要命。”^[10]但在这段时期之后，肉馅饼这个词在康沃尔就渐渐少用了^[11]。

这种馅饼早期这是有钱人的食物，在17、18世纪之间，其在康沃尔的劳动阶级受到欢迎，康沃尔人和锡矿工们把这种造型特殊、携带方便、不用餐具就可以食用的肉馅饼当作正餐^[12]^[13]^[14]。密封的馅饼皮在矿坑里有好几个小时的保温效果，要是冷掉了，也可以简单地用加热铲或蜡烛加热^[15]。

根据馅饼边缘的卷曲形状，有一种推测是这些矿工食用馅饼时，会用手抓住较厚的打折边缘，最后把手碰到的部分丢掉，这样就不会让手指的脏污（很可能有砷残留）碰到食物或吃进嘴里^[16]。不过在很多老照片里，馅饼用都纸袋或布袋包著，可以从头到尾吃完^[17]；1929年出版的康沃尔食谱书里，称这是享用馅饼“最道地的康沃尔吃法”^[18]。另一种推测则是，馅饼的一端会做个缩写记号，然后从另一端开始吃，这样就算吃到一半还是可以认出馅饼属于谁的^[15]。

2006年德文郡（Devon）的学者在1510年的帐本里，发现一张馅饼材料的清单，帐本纪载著制作鹿肉馅饼的花费^[19]。此一发现取代了当时最早的纪录，一份1746年的食谱，该文件藏于特鲁罗的康沃尔档案局（Cornwall Records Office）^[20]。由于肉馅饼在当时是公认的豪华餐点，这份来自埃奇库姆山宅邸（Mount Edgcumbe estate）的食谱使用鹿肉作肉馅^[21]。德文郡普利茅斯这份记载馅饼价格的1509年文件的出现，反而引起了邻近两郡（德文与康沃尔）的发源地之争^[20]^[22]^[23]。但馅饼（pasty）一词，如上所述，在英国各地都有更早的文献纪录。

食谱与材料

康沃尔肉馅饼已经被纳入法定地理区域产品保护制度（protected geographical indication，PGI）食谱应该含有：牛肉丁或牛绞肉、洋葱、马铃薯和以胡椒稍微调味的芜菁甘蓝块^[16]。牛肉部位通常用侧腹横肌牛排^[24]。康沃尔地区有时会把芜菁甘蓝称作芜菁，但这个食谱不应使用普通芜菁^[25]。通常用盐及胡椒调味，可依个人口味调整^[26]。虽然胡萝卜在一般食谱很常见，但在传统康沃尔肉馅饼里不应使用这项材料^[24]。

虽然现代馅饼常用酥皮当饼皮^[26]，但其实没有特定饼皮种类的规定，只要颜色金黄、在加热或冷却时不会裂开即可^[16]。有个判断馅饼皮优劣的打趣说法：品质好的肉馅饼可以承受掉下矿井的冲击而不破掉^[27]；通常饼皮都是用大麦面粉制成，的确会比较扎实^[28]。

变化

尽管受官方保护的康沃尔肉馅饼有特定材料，康沃尔古食谱里却告诉读者各种能取得的食物都可以当馅料^[21] 。虽然馅饼最早的纪录是鹿肉馅，而不是牛肉馅^[20]。但馅饼这个词，一直都是指称饼皮包裹各种馅料的食物，馅料口味可以有很多变化，包括：斯蒂尔顿芝士、素食，甚至做成印度串烧鸡肉口味^[21]。苹果猪肉馅饼在康沃尔与德文郡的商店都能买到，馅饼里会包满苹果调味酱汁，而甜口味的苹果加无花果或香蕉巧克力馅饼，在康沃尔某些地区也很常见 ^[14]。

19世纪安格尔西岛的的铜矿矿工会吃一种半甜咸的馅饼（类似Bedfordshire clanger）。经专家研究后，发现该食谱据说是从康沃尔的矿工们到安格尔西找工作时传过去的^[29]。目前康沃尔市面上没有贩售这种二合一馅饼^[30]，只有业馀厨师在做^[26] 。英国连锁超市Morrisons贩售这种馅饼，品名是锡矿工馅饼^[31]。其他传统馅料包括：猪肉、培根、鸡蛋、兔肉、鸡肉、鲭鱼；甜馅料有：枣子、苹果、果酱和甜的米饭等等，这也是因此产生常被提起的老笑话“魔鬼唯恐自己会被做成馅饼，不敢踏入康沃尔一步”^[32]。

如果馅料里的牛肉用马铃薯替代，这种馅饼就称作“tiddy oggy”；“tiddy”指马铃薯，而“oggy”则是馅饼的意思，肉价高昂的时候就会吃这种馅饼^[33]。还有一种不含肉的“香草馅饼（herby pie）”，有香芹、现采的各种绿色香草加上虾夷葱、野韭或韭葱，搭配一大匙凝脂奶油^[32]。

形状

依据规定，康沃尔馅饼应做成英文字母“D”的形状，封口侧缘打折，康沃尔当地的打折方式不只一种^[34]，有些人喜欢在侧边打折，有些人则认为在顶部打折比较正统^[14]^[30]。一份文献指出德文郡馅饼和康沃尔馅饼的差异：德文郡馅饼是椭圆形顶部打折，而康沃尔馅饼是半圆形、沿著弧形侧边打折^[26]。顶部打折的馅饼样式在康沃尔已经有悠久的历史^[35]，但是喜欢在顶部打折的烘焙师们，现在不能再将做出来的馅饼冠上“康沃尔”的名号了^[36]。

其他地点

图集

参考资料

[1]
Wilson, Kenneth G. (1993). The Columbia guide to standard American English. Columbia University Press. p. 321. ISBN 0-231-06989-8.
[2]
存档副本. [2016-11-13]. （原始内容存档于2016-11-08）.
[3]
Cambridge Dictionaries Online. "Pasty". Retrieved 14 June 2012.
[4]
Scully, Terence, ed.; Taillevent (1988). The Viandier of Taillevent: an edition of all extant manuscripts. Pasty mentions: University of Ottawa Press. p. 361. ISBN 0-7766-0174-1.
[5]
The Goodman of Paris. c. 1393.
[6]
Nuttall, P Austin (1840). A classical and archæological dictionary of the manners, customs, laws, institutions, arts, etc. of the celebrated nations of antiquity, and of the middle ages. London. p. 555.
[7]
Brayley, Edward Wedlake (1808). The Beauties of England and Wales, Or Delineations, Topographical, Historical and Descriptive. VII (Hertford, Huntingdon and Kent). London: Thomas Maiden. p. 40.
[8]
Encyclopaedia Britannica 1823 vol VIII. Printed for Archibald Constable and Company. 1823. p. 585.
[9]
Shackle, Eric (21 April 2001). "A short history of ... Cornish pasties | Life and style | The Observer". London: Guardian. Retrieved 14 August 2009.
[10]
"Thursday 1 August 1667". The Diary of Samuel Pepys. Phil Gyford. Retrieved 1 September 2011.
[11]
Laura Mason & Catherine Brown (2007). From Bath Chaps to Bara Brith: The Taste of South West Britain. Harper Press. pp. 32–33. ISBN 978-0-7524-4742-1.
[12]
Harris, J Henry (2009). Cornish Saints & Sinners. Wildside Press LLC. p. 195.
[13]
Devlin, Kate (25 July 2008). "The History of the Cornish Pasty". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 March 2011.
[14]
Grigson, Jane (1993) English Food. Penguin Books, p. 226
[15]
Miller, Luke; Westergren, Marc. "History of the Pasty". The Cultural Context of the Pasty". Michigan Technological University. Retrieved 13 March 2006.
[16]
"Cornish Pasty (PGI)" (PDF). DEFRA. Retrieved 2 March 2011.
[17]
Mansfield, Emma (2011). The Little Book of the Pasty. Cornwall: Lovely Little Books. p. 101. ISBN 978-1-906771-28-7.
[18]
Martin, Edith (1929). Cornish Recipes: Ancient and Modern. Truro: A. W. Jordan.
[19]
"A pasty in Plymouth's Old Audit Book". Volume number 1/130, from the Borough of Plymouth records, dated 1510. Plymouth City Council. Archived from the original on 12 January 2012. Retrieved 2 April 2011.
[20]
"Who invented the Cornish pasty?". London: Independent.co.uk. 13 November 2006. Retrieved 21 September 2009.
[21]
Trewin, Carol; Woolfitt, Adam (2005). Gourmet Cornwall. Alison Hodge Publishers. pp. 125–129. ISBN 0-906720-39-7.
[22]
"UK | England | Cornwall | Devon invented the Cornish pasty". BBC News. 13 November 2006. Retrieved 14 August 2009.
[23]
"West Devon Record Office". Archived from the original on 27 September 2007. Retrieved 23 December 2005.
[24]
Clarke, Felicity (23 February 2011). "Ultimate Cornish Pasty Recipe". The Guardian. Retrieved 4 March 2011.
[25]
Beckford, Martin (20 August 2010). "Turnip or swede? Brussels rules on ingredients of Cornish pasty". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 March 2011.
[26]
Ann Pringle Harris (7 February 1988). "Fare of the Country; In Cornwall, a Meal in a Crust". New York Times. Retrieved 15 March 2005.
[27]
Hall, Stephen (2001). The Cornish Pasty. Nettlecombe, UK: Agre Books. ISBN 0-9538000-4-0.
[28]
Pascoe, Ann (1988). Cornish Recipes Old and New. Penryn: Tor Mark Press. p. 1. ISBN 0-85025-304-7.
[29]
"UK | Wales | North West Wales | Sweet-savoury pastie back on menu". BBC News. 26 March 2006. Retrieved 21 September 2009.
[30]
Merrick, Hettie (1995). The Pasty Book. Penryn: Tor Mark Press.
[31]
存档副本. [2016-11-13]. （原始内容存档于2022-01-04）.
[32]
Cornish Recipes, Ancient & Modern, Edith Martin, Truro, 1929
[33]
Bareham, Lindsey (21 November 2008). "The perfect pasty?". The Times. Retrieved 11 March 2011.
[34]
Wallop, Harry (22 February 2011). "Cornish pasty given EU protected status". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 March 2011.
[35]
Cornish Pasty". Here and Now Magazine. Retrieved 2 April 2011.
[36]
Middleton, Kimberley (27 February 2011). "This is where the great pasty revolt begins". The Independent. Retrieved 2 April 2011.

[1] [1]
Wilson, Kenneth G. (1993). The Columbia guide to standard American English. Columbia University Press. p. 321. ISBN 0-231-06989-8.

[2] [2]
存档副本. [2016-11-13]. （原始内容存档于2016-11-08）.

[3] [3]
Cambridge Dictionaries Online. "Pasty". Retrieved 14 June 2012.

[4] [4]
Scully, Terence, ed.; Taillevent (1988). The Viandier of Taillevent: an edition of all extant manuscripts. Pasty mentions: University of Ottawa Press. p. 361. ISBN 0-7766-0174-1.

[5] [5]
The Goodman of Paris. c. 1393.

[6] [6]
Nuttall, P Austin (1840). A classical and archæological dictionary of the manners, customs, laws, institutions, arts, etc. of the celebrated nations of antiquity, and of the middle ages. London. p. 555.

[7] [7]
Brayley, Edward Wedlake (1808). The Beauties of England and Wales, Or Delineations, Topographical, Historical and Descriptive. VII (Hertford, Huntingdon and Kent). London: Thomas Maiden. p. 40.

[8] [8]
Encyclopaedia Britannica 1823 vol VIII. Printed for Archibald Constable and Company. 1823. p. 585.

[9] [9]
Shackle, Eric (21 April 2001). "A short history of ... Cornish pasties | Life and style | The Observer". London: Guardian. Retrieved 14 August 2009.

[10] [10]
"Thursday 1 August 1667". The Diary of Samuel Pepys. Phil Gyford. Retrieved 1 September 2011.

[11] [11]
Laura Mason & Catherine Brown (2007). From Bath Chaps to Bara Brith: The Taste of South West Britain. Harper Press. pp. 32–33. ISBN 978-0-7524-4742-1.

[12] [12]
Harris, J Henry (2009). Cornish Saints & Sinners. Wildside Press LLC. p. 195.

[13] [13]
Devlin, Kate (25 July 2008). "The History of the Cornish Pasty". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 March 2011.

[:5-14] [14]
Grigson, Jane (1993) English Food. Penguin Books, p. 226

[:0-15] [15]
Miller, Luke; Westergren, Marc. "History of the Pasty". The Cultural Context of the Pasty". Michigan Technological University. Retrieved 13 March 2006.

[:2-16] [16]
"Cornish Pasty (PGI)" (PDF). DEFRA. Retrieved 2 March 2011.

[17] [17]
Mansfield, Emma (2011). The Little Book of the Pasty. Cornwall: Lovely Little Books. p. 101. ISBN 978-1-906771-28-7.

[18] [18]
Martin, Edith (1929). Cornish Recipes: Ancient and Modern. Truro: A. W. Jordan.

[19] [19]
"A pasty in Plymouth's Old Audit Book". Volume number 1/130, from the Borough of Plymouth records, dated 1510. Plymouth City Council. Archived from the original on 12 January 2012. Retrieved 2 April 2011.

[:1-20] [20]
"Who invented the Cornish pasty?". London: Independent.co.uk. 13 November 2006. Retrieved 21 September 2009.

[:6-21] [21]
Trewin, Carol; Woolfitt, Adam (2005). Gourmet Cornwall. Alison Hodge Publishers. pp. 125–129. ISBN 0-906720-39-7.

[22] [22]
"UK | England | Cornwall | Devon invented the Cornish pasty". BBC News. 13 November 2006. Retrieved 14 August 2009.

[23] [23]
"West Devon Record Office". Archived from the original on 27 September 2007. Retrieved 23 December 2005.

[:3-24] [24]
Clarke, Felicity (23 February 2011). "Ultimate Cornish Pasty Recipe". The Guardian. Retrieved 4 March 2011.

[25] [25]
Beckford, Martin (20 August 2010). "Turnip or swede? Brussels rules on ingredients of Cornish pasty". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 March 2011.

[:4-26] [26]
Ann Pringle Harris (7 February 1988). "Fare of the Country; In Cornwall, a Meal in a Crust". New York Times. Retrieved 15 March 2005.

[27] [27]
Hall, Stephen (2001). The Cornish Pasty. Nettlecombe, UK: Agre Books. ISBN 0-9538000-4-0.

[28] [28]
Pascoe, Ann (1988). Cornish Recipes Old and New. Penryn: Tor Mark Press. p. 1. ISBN 0-85025-304-7.

[29] [29]
"UK | Wales | North West Wales | Sweet-savoury pastie back on menu". BBC News. 26 March 2006. Retrieved 21 September 2009.

[:7-30] [30]
Merrick, Hettie (1995). The Pasty Book. Penryn: Tor Mark Press.

[31] [31]
存档副本. [2016-11-13]. （原始内容存档于2022-01-04）.

[#1-32] [32]
Cornish Recipes, Ancient & Modern, Edith Martin, Truro, 1929

[33] [33]
Bareham, Lindsey (21 November 2008). "The perfect pasty?". The Times. Retrieved 11 March 2011.

[34] [34]
Wallop, Harry (22 February 2011). "Cornish pasty given EU protected status". The Daily Telegraph. Retrieved 2 March 2011.

[35] [35]
Cornish Pasty". Here and Now Magazine. Retrieved 2 April 2011.

[36] [36]
Middleton, Kimberley (27 February 2011). "This is where the great pasty revolt begins". The Independent. Retrieved 2 April 2011.

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