Thebe Magugu

Thebetsile "Thebe" Magugu^[1] (born 1 September 1993)^[2] is a South African fashion designer. Born in Kimberley and based in Johannesburg, he rose to prominence as the winner of the 2019 LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, and a finalist in the 2021 International Woolmark Prize. Magugu has released eleven solo collections under his own namesake label since 2017, as well as several capsules in collaboration with international brands such as Dior, Adidas, and AZ Factory.

Thebe Magugu
Magugu in 2019
Born	Thebetsile Magugu (1993-09-01) 1 September 1993 (age 31) Kimberley, Northern Cape, South Africa
Nationality	South African
Education	London International School of Fashion, Johannesburg
Label	Thebe Magugu
Awards	LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize (2019)
Website	thebemagugu.com

Early life

Magugu was born in the township of Ipopeng on the outskirts of Kimberley,^[3] on 1 September 1993.^[2] He is of Sotho ancestry.^[4] He was educated at St. Patrick's Christian Brothers' College in Kimberley,^[5] and then at the London International School of Fashion (LISOF) in Johannesburg,^[6] where he studied fashion design, fashion photography and fashion media.^[7]

Career

2016–2018: Early career and national breakthrough

After graduating from LISOF, Magugu established his eponymous label in Johannesburg in 2016.^[8] Released in the spring/summer season of 2017, his debut collection titled Geology was featured in Vogue Italia.^[9][10] Magugu's following collections included Home Economics for the autumn/winter 2018 season, and Gender Studies for the spring/summer 2018 season, both of which were shown at South African Fashion Week and were notably photographed on scarecrows instead of supermodels.^[11][12] This was followed by the Art History collection in spring/summer 2019,^[13] and African Studies in autumn/winter 2019.^[14]

2019–present: International breakthrough

In 2019, Magugu was announced as the winner of the International Fashion Showcase by the British Fashion Council.^[15] He then became the first African to be awarded the 2019 LVMH Young Fashion Designer Prize, which earned him 300,000 euros and a year's worth of mentoring from LVMH.^[8][16] President of South Africa, Cyril Ramaphosa, subsequently commended Magugu and wrote that "his level of consciousness he brings to his artistry is most inspiring and distinguishes him from his contemporaries".^[17] Magugu presented his debut collection at the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week for the autumn/winter season titled Anthro 1.^[17][18][19] His first-ever menswear line was released in collaboration with Dover Street Market in London in September of that year.^[20]

Magugu designed a dress entitled "Girl Seeks Girl", which was exhibited at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2021.^[6][21] This was followed by the Fingerprint Knitted Dress, which American singer Dionne Warwick wore in a short film directed by Solange Knowles titled "Passage", which served as his entry to the 2021 International Woolmark Prize, where he was shortlisted as a finalist.^[22] Inspired by family, his collection Genealogy was released during Paris Fashion Week in September 2021 alongside a short film for the spring/summer 2022 season.^[23][24]

In early 2022, Magugu was enlisted by AZ Factory, a brand under Israeli fashion designer Alber Elbaz and Swiss fashion house Richemont, to collaborate on the Amigos clothing line.^[25][26] He partnered with German apparel company Adidas to design a tennis collection which would be worn by athletes Dana Mathewson, Stefanos Tsitsipas, Felix Auger Aliassime, Jessica Pegula and Dominic Thiem at the 2022 US Open.^[27] He collaborated with Adidas again in that same year to design a local sportswear collection titled Finding Beauty.^[28] In August 2022, American fashion magazine Vogue published a special feature titled "Designer Swap" which saw a collaboration between Magugu and Pierpaolo Piccioli of Valentino.^[4][29][30] Magugu's Spring 2023 collection, titled Discard Theory, debuted at the Victoria and Albert Museum in October 2022 as part of London Fashion Week.^[31] He then was enlisted by Italian fashion designer Maria Grazia Chiuri to reinterpret the "New Look" for French luxury house Dior in a limited-edition capsule collection, whose proceeds would go to the Charlize Theron Africa Outreach Project.^[32] His Fall/Winter 2023 collection, titled Folklorics, debuted at the Sphere Gallery in the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week.^[33][34] A piece from the collection was featured in the Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City in May 2024.^[35]

In May 2024, Magugu opened the brand's first retail store, named "Magugu House", on a 32,000 square foot plot in Dunkeld, Johannesburg.^[36]

Personal life

Magugu is a member of the LGBTQIA+ community.^[37]

References

1. Katz, Evan Ross (22 March 2021). "Thebe Magugu on South African Spies and Having Wendy Wear His Clothes". Paper. Archived from the original on 30 October 2022. Retrieved 8 November 2022.
2. Issac-Goizé, Tina (4 September 2019). "Thebe Magugu Wins the 2019 LVMH Prize". Vogue. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022. the Johannesburg-based womenswear designer just turned 26 last Sunday
3. Nnadi, Chioma (14 April 2020). "South African Designer Thebe Magugu Has Found His Voice—And The Fashion World Is Listening". Vogue. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
4. Bowles, Hamish (24 August 2022). "See Thebe Magugu and Valentino's Pierpaolo Piccioli Gloriously Transform Each Other's Work". Vogue. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
5. "The fabric armourer: Thebe Magugu". Mail & Guardian. 2 March 2018. Archived from the original on 23 October 2022. Retrieved 8 November 2022.
6. Huber, Mellissa (10 September 2021). "Thebe Magugu on the Political Power of Fashion". Metropolitan Museum of Art. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
7. Indvik, Lauren (6 May 2019). "Thebe Magugu on building a global business in an emerging market". Vogue Business. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 September 2022.
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9. Tlhagoane, Leanne (26 June 2017). "Thebe Magugu". Vogue Italia. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
10. Magak, Adhiambo E (29 August 2022). "Thebe Magugu: Game, Set and Match". OkayAfrica. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
11. Geldenhuys, Daniël (3 June 2018). "Thebe Magugu's fierce and feminine new collections". News24. City Press. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
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13. Hlalethwa, Zaza (2 November 2018). "Magugu fashions a new look for Sunday bests". Mail & Guardian. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
14. Rasool, Amira (27 March 2019). "Thebe Magugu is the LVMH prize finalist prioritising the study of African history". i-D. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
15. "Thebe Magugu from South Africa Announced as the Winner of International Fashion Showcase 2019". British Fashion Council. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
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17. Gambade, Emilie (1 March 2020). "Thebe Magugu shines at Paris Fashion Week". Daily Maverick. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
18. Nnadi, Chioma (26 February 2020). "Thebe Magugu Fall 2020 Ready-to-Wear Collection". Vogue. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
19. de Greef, Erica (17 March 2020). "An ode to Ipopeng". Nataal. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
20. Silbert, Jake (29 September 2020). "Thebe Magugu's Debut Menswear Line Takes Cues From His Personal Wardrobe". Hypebeast. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
21. Mazibuko, Thobile (24 March 2021). "Thebe Magugu "Girl Seeks Girl" Dress secures spot at the Metropolitan Museum of Art". GQ. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
22. Mazibuko, Thobile (8 June 2021). "Thebe Magugu shortlisted for International Woolmark Prize". GQ. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
23. Cary, Alice (28 September 2021). ""Fashion Can Be Such A Powerful Tool": Thebe Magugu On His Family-Inspired SS22 Film". British Vogue. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
24. Pauly, Alexandra (29 September 2021). "In Paris, Thebe Magugu's Family Tree Blooms". Highsnobiety. Archived from the original on 2 April 2023. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
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27. Legodi, Simangele (11 August 2022). "Thebe Magugu Adidas tennis collection to debut at the 2022 US Open". Eyewitness News. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
28. Khalfe, Farah. "Inside the adidas x Thebe Magugu Finding Beauty collection launch". GQ. Archived from the original on 19 October 2022. Retrieved 19 October 2022.
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35. "Thebe Magugu's Folklorics collection featured in Met exhibition". Bona Magazine. 9 May 2024. Retrieved 8 June 2024.
36. Diderich, Joelle (10 May 2024). "EXCLUSIVE: South African Designer Thebe Magugu's First Retail Location Is More Than Just a Store". WWD. Retrieved 8 June 2024.
37. AnOther (31 March 2022). "Thebe Magugu: "I Want My Clothes to Be Relics for South Africa"". AnOther. Archived from the original on 23 October 2022. Retrieved 8 November 2022.