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Italian rock climber (born 1993) From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Stefano Ghisolfi (born February 18, 1993) is an Italian professional rock climber, who specializes in competition climbing, sport climbing, and bouldering. In competition climbing, he completes in competition lead climbing, competition bouldering, and competition speed climbing, with lead being his strongest discipline. As a sport climber, he has redpointed sport climbing routes of grade 9b+ (5.15c),[1] onsighted routes of 8c (5.14b),[2] and solved boulder problems at grade 8B+ (V14).[3] In December 2018, after climbing Perfecto Mundo, he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a 9b+ (5.15c) route.[4]
Personal information | |||||||||||||||
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Born | Turin, Italy | February 18, 1993||||||||||||||
Occupation | Professional rock climber | ||||||||||||||
Height | 170 cm (5 ft 7 in) | ||||||||||||||
Weight | 58 kg (128 lb) | ||||||||||||||
Climbing career | |||||||||||||||
Type of climber | |||||||||||||||
Ape index | +4 cm (2 in) | ||||||||||||||
Highest grade | |||||||||||||||
Known for |
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First ascents |
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Medal record
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Updated on December 7, 2018 |
In 2007, Ghisolfi participated in his first international competition: the IFSC European Youth Cup.
Both in 2010 and 2011, he won the bronze medal in Lead climbing at the IFSC World Youth Championships.[5] In the same years, he also participated in the IFSC World Championships as a senior competitor, for all disciplines (lead, bouldering, and speed) and placed tenth in the overall ranking.
On October 13, 2012, he first got on the podium in the World Cup, obtaining a bronze medal in Xining, China. He obtained gold medals in the World Cup stages at Wujiang (China), in 2014, Xiamen (China), in 2016, and then again at Wujiang (China), in 2017.
On November 2, 2015, he made the first free ascent (FFA) of Lapsus, in Andonno (Italy), a 70-hold sport climbing route for which he proposed a grade of 9b (5.15b).[6]
On December 7, 2018, after climbing the 9b+ (5.15c) sport route Perfecto Mundo (Margalef, ESP), he became the fourth climber in history to redpoint a route at that grade, after Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, and Alex Megos.[4]
On September 2, 2020, he made the second ascent of Change 9b+ (5.15c), in Flatanger, Norway; the first-ever 9b+ route in history, established by Adam Ondra in 2012.[7]
On August 24, 2021, he made the second ascent of Bibliographie 9b+ (5.15c), in Céüse, France. Originally graded with a proposed 9c (5.15d) rating, the route was first established by Alex Megos. Ghisolfi then downgraded it to 9b+.[8]
On February 2, 2023, made the FFA of Excalibur, in Arco, in Italy, for which he proposed a grade of 9b+ (5.15c).[9]
Discipline | 2009 | 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 21 | 24 | 10 | 10 | 9 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 2 | 5 | 1 | |
Bouldering | 65 | 83 | 30 | 41 | ||||||||
Speed | 17 | 30 | 38 | |||||||||
Combined | 10 | 10 | 4 | 9 |
Discipline | 2008 Youth B |
2009 Youth A |
2010 Youth A |
2011 Juniors |
2012 Juniors |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 5 | 15 | 3 | 3 | 13 |
Speed | 5 | 6 | 5 | - | 17 |
Adult[5]
Discipline | 2011 | 2012 | 2014 | 2016 | 2018 |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 27 | 16 | 10 | 7 | 22 |
Bouldering | 25 | 16 | |||
Speed | 30 | 33 |
Youth[5]
Discipline | 2012 Juniors |
---|---|
Lead | 3 |
Adult[5]
Discipline | 2010 | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
---|---|---|---|---|
Lead | 37 | 16 | 7 | 10 |
Bouldering | 37 | 35 | 35 | - |
Speed | 18 | 32 | 26 | - |
Season | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|
2012 | 1 | 1 | ||
2013 | 0 | |||
2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
2015 | 0 | |||
2016 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
2017 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 3 |
2018 | 2 | 2 | 4 | |
2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
2020 | 0 | |||
2021 | 1 | 2 | 3 | |
Total | 6 | 6 | 3 | 15 |
Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | Juniors | 1 | 3 | 4 | |
2012 | Juniors | 1 | 1 | ||
Total | 1 | 1 | 3 | 5 |
Season | Category | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
2011 | Juniors | 2 | 2 | ||
Total | 0 | 0 | 2 | 2 |
9b+ (5.15c):
9b (5.15b):
9a+ (5.15a):
9a (5.14d):
8c (5.14b):
8b+ (5.14a):
Ghisolfi climbed five 8B (V13) and two 8B+ (V14) boulder problems.[3]
He won the 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016 editions of Melloblocco.[24]
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