水手裙

水手裙（英语：sailor dress）是依水手服样式设计的连衣裙，这种样式尤见于紧身胸衣与衣领。水手领的衬衫被称为水手衬衫（middy blouse，middy源自midshipman，即海军学校学员（英语：midshipman））。^[1]20世纪初美国以设计水手裙的海军裁缝名之彼得·汤姆森连衣裙（Peter Thomson dress）。^[2]

2 sources

彼得·汤姆森连衣裙

彼得·汤姆森（或作汤普森，Thompson）^[3]1900年左右在美国纽约、费城开设裁缝店。^[4]他为妇孺设计的原创水手裙与套装藏于大都会博物馆服装学院（英语：Anna Wintour Costume Center）、^[5]费城艺术博物馆等美国博物馆。^[6]彼得·汤姆森连衣裙的夏装以棉或亚麻制成，冬装以羊毛制成。^[7]商家宣传其为女学生理想服装，并受试图建立“标准样式”服装者欢迎。^[8]^[9]至1919年，彼得·汤姆森连衣裙成为校服的有效选择，以及“适合14—18岁女孩穿着多年好品味”的代名词。^[9]彼得·汤姆森样式亦用于早期泳装的紧身胸衣。^[10]

彼得·汤姆森设计流行前，水手样式的连衣裙已广为人知。1887年瑞典，自然腰围与百褶裙的“水手裙”是服装改革（英语：Victorian dress reform）运动所提倡适合女孩的设计。^[11]

9 sources

20世纪末21世纪初

水手样式有时用于妇人服装，但20世纪中叶以来主要用于婴幼儿的连衣裙。^[12]20世纪后期，水手样式与孕妇装（英语：maternity clothing）联系在一起，导致对水手样式女装的负面印象，以及穿着者“孩子气”的一般观念。^[13]孕妇装设计师利兹·兰格（英语：Liz Lange）说：“她不应仅因有孩子就穿得孩子气；让蹒跚学步的孩子穿水手服是一回事，让成年女子遭受这样的命运完全是另一回事。”^[14]

3 sources

参考文献

[1]
Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. 2011 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780810840041. （原始内容存档于2020-10-20）.
[2]
Brooks Picken, Mary. Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. International textbook company. 1923: 250. A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy...
[3]
The Flapper 00:29:13
[4]
Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
[5]
Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.
[6]
Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers. Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2018-12-04）.
[7]
Mrs. Mathews. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. The Anchora of Delta Gamma. Delta Gamma Fraternity. January 1916: 168 [2022-03-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
[8]
Przybyszewski, Linda. Much for Little. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. New York: Basic Books. 2014: 1944 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780465080472. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
[9]
Dwyer-McNulty, Sally. School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism 1 [edition]. UNC Press Books. 2014: 102–104 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781469614090. （原始内容存档于2020-09-26）.
[10]
Gold, Annalee. 90 years of fashion. New York: Fairchild Fashion Group. 1991: 61. ISBN 9780870056802.
[11]
Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent: Kent State University Press. 2003 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780873387422. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
[12]
Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille. Technical sourcebook for designers Second. New York: Bloomsbury Pub. 2014: 107 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781609018566. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.
[13]
Iovine, Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. Simon and Schuster. 2007: 129, 131, 135 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781416551874. （原始内容存档于2020-08-20）.
[14]
Lange, Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time 1. New York: Clarkson Potter. 2003: 8 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780609809174. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.

[1] [1]
Lewandowski, Elizabeth J. The complete costume dictionary. Lanham, Md.: Scarecrow Press, Inc. 2011 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780810840041. （原始内容存档于2020-10-20）.

[2] [2]
Brooks Picken, Mary. Textiles and sewing materials: Textiles, laces, embroideries and findings, shopping hints, mending, household sewing, trade and sewing terms. International textbook company. 1923: 250. A kind of dress worn by young girls, the waist of which is made in exact imitation of a sailor's blouse. This style of dress derives its name from its creator, Peter Thomson, who was a tailor in the navy...

[3] [3]
The Flapper 00:29:13

[4] [4]
Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: 1902. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.

[5] [5]
Sailor Suit: Peter Thomson (American) Date: ca. 1900. The Collection Online. Metropolitan Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.

[6] [6]
Boy's Sailor Suit: Shirt and Knickers. Search the Collections: Philadelphia Museum of Art. Philadelphia Museum of Art. [2014-09-25]. （原始内容存档于2018-12-04）.

[7] [7]
Mrs. Mathews. Neglected Fraternity Opportunities. The Anchora of Delta Gamma. Delta Gamma Fraternity. January 1916: 168 [2022-03-04]. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.

[linda-8] [8]
Przybyszewski, Linda. Much for Little. The Lost Art of Dress The Women Who Once Made America Stylish. New York: Basic Books. 2014: 1944 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780465080472. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.

[sally-9] [9]
Dwyer-McNulty, Sally. School Uniforms: A New Look for Catholic Girls. Common threads : a cultural history of clothing in American Catholicism 1 [edition]. UNC Press Books. 2014: 102–104 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781469614090. （原始内容存档于2020-09-26）.

[10] [10]
Gold, Annalee. 90 years of fashion. New York: Fairchild Fashion Group. 1991: 61. ISBN 9780870056802.

[11] [11]
Cunningham, Patricia A. Reforming women's fashion, 1850-1920 : politics, health, and art. Kent: Kent State University Press. 2003 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780873387422. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.

[12] [12]
Lee, Jaeil; Steen, Camille. Technical sourcebook for designers Second. New York: Bloomsbury Pub. 2014: 107 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781609018566. （原始内容存档于2020-08-19）.

[13] [13]
Iovine, Vicky. The Girlfriends' Guide to Pregnancy. Simon and Schuster. 2007: 129, 131, 135 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9781416551874. （原始内容存档于2020-08-20）.

[14] [14]
Lange, Liz. Liz Lange's maternity style : how to look fabulous during the most fashion-challenged time 1. New York: Clarkson Potter. 2003: 8 [2022-03-04]. ISBN 9780609809174. （原始内容存档于2022-03-04）.

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