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Pollera
Long, full skirt of Spanish origin, worn throughout Latin America as part of folk dress From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
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The Pollera is a traditional skirt and ensemble with origins in Spain, Panama, Bolivia, and Peru, each region developing its own distinctive styles and cultural significance over time.
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In Spain, the pollera was worn by women nearly a century ago and was characterized by colorful, ruffled skirts and elaborate tops. In Panama, the pollera has evolved into an intricate national dress, renowned for its handcrafted embroidery, lacework, and regional variations, and remains a central symbol of Panamanian heritage and identity. In Bolivia and Peru, the pollera refers to a pleated skirt closely associated with mestizo and indigenous women, especially during festivals and traditional events. Across these cultures, the pollera reflects the blending of local traditions, artisan techniques, and social customs.
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Spanish pollera
In Spain, it is a skirt worn by women almost a century ago. They are made of wool or cotton and are very colorful. The large gathered skirt is generally white with two or three ruffles which have a floral design or embroidery. The top has several ruffles as well on the shoulders and has inlaid yarn. There is a large pompom matching the yarn in the front and back of the top. The yarn also matches several large ribbons at the waist and the slippers that go with the outfit. The clothing includes a headdress called a tembleque (or tembeleque) which is made of beads attached to a spring so that they shake when the wearer dances.[citation needed]
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Panamanian pollera
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The Panamanian pollera is recognized as one of the most elaborate traditional garments in the Americas, with origins traced to the attire of Spanish women who arrived during the 16th and 17th centuries.[1] The origins of the pollera are rooted in Spanish colonial influence, but reflect Panama’s broader history as a cultural crossroads shaped by Indigenous, European, and Afro-Antillean traditions and ways of dress.[2] Polleras are traditional garments that serve as Panama’s national dress, particularly associated with the interior provinces of Panama. [2]
The Panamanian pollera consists of a handmade skirt and shirt, crafted by Panamanian artisans in a range of colors and designs. These outfits are often passed down through generations.[2] It is handmade, often on fine-threaded fabric, and features intricate lacework and embroidery using techniques such as darning, cross-stitch, and shaded work. Polleras are typically custom-made, as a proper fit is considered essential. Each pollera type is associated with unique regional customs, elements of jewelry, and methods of adornment, reflecting Panama’s diverse cultural heritage.[1] They are typically classified into two main types: gala (formal) and labor (work), with each region having its variations. The creation of a pollera is time-intensive, often requiring between one and a half to two years to complete.[3]
The Panamanian pollera is internationally recognized for its elaborate designs, vibrant colors, embroidery, lace, metalwork, and craftsmanship. It is considered one of the most beautiful traditional costumes in the world. Polleras are crafted by artisans throughout Panama, with a concentration in the Azuero Peninsula.[3]
The pollera is celebrated during the annual Desfiles de las Mil Polleras in Las Tablas every January, where a wide variety of these garments can be seen together. The continued creation, wearing, and display of polleras reflect Panama’s ongoing process of cultural assimilation and the preservation of traditional crafts within its diverse national identity.[2]
The pollera is mainly made of cotton and linen. Typically, the dominant color is white, and the skirts feature colorful floral designs as embellishments.[citation needed] The three principal artisan techniques used in contemporary Panamanian pollera making are Talco al sol bordada (embroidered sun talc; fabric on fabric technique), Gala de labor zurcida calada (gala of labor, darned and openwork, made with thread), and Marcada (marked).[3]

The price of a pollera can vary widely depending on its materials and embellishments. A marked pollera set—which includes the shirt, skirt, shawl, and fan—typically costs between $10,000 and $12,000. This base price rises with the addition of accessories: gold-plated silver jewelry (seven chains for about $2,500), a set of five combs ($500), and tembleques adorned with pearls and Swarovski crystals ($1,000). Two petticoats, each ranging from $1,000 to $1,500, can bring the total cost to around $18,500, and that figure does not include makeup. If the owner opts for solid gold accessories, the price increases dramatically. For instance, a single flat chain requires roughly 45 grams of gold (about $1,575), meaning the full set of seven chains alone can surpass $10,500. When combined with the marked pollera, combs, tembleques, and petticoats, the overall expense can exceed $26,500. By contrast, second-hand polleras may be found for around $5,000, depending on the quality of their craftsmanship.[3]
Pollera de Gala

The gala, or luxury, pollera is the most ornate and is crafted with Valencian lace and locally made braids. The embroidery covers the entire garment and is often done by eye, making some styles particularly challenging. Variations include the "Talco al sol" (Sun Talc), which involves colored fabric cutwork, and the rarer "Talco en sombra" (Shadow Talc), featuring work beneath the fabric. The formal gala pollera is worn at celebrations such as quinceañeras and weddings, distinguished by its white fabric, white thread embroidery, lace ribbons, and sometimes wool or other fibers. It is accessorized with pearl combs and chains, including religious pieces.[1]
The most expensive versions are the Santeña gala de labor polleras, though prices vary based on the type of labor and regional style.[3]
Pollera Montuna or Pollera Zaraza
Originally worn for rural activities, the mountain skirt varies by region (e.g., Santeña, Ocú, Veraguas, Penonomé, Antón), with distinctions in shirt style, jewelry, headdress, and hat. The term "montuna" refers to its origins among peasant women from the mountains, but the name "zaraza" is also used, referencing the fabric. Modern festive versions feature increased craftsmanship and flair.[1]
Pollera Congo

This style is part of the Afro-Panamanian tradition, especially in Colón. It is made from a variety of brightly colored fabrics or floral prints, with scraps arranged in a random, yet intentional way. The Congo queen’s attire includes a crown, natural or artificial flowers in the hair, and numerous long necklaces. It is traditional for the Congo dancer to perform barefoot.[1]
Pollera con Basquiña

The Pollera con basquiña is used in several regions. The basquiña is crafted from fine fabrics, adorned with tucks, braid, and Valencian or thread lace. It is paired with gold or gold-plated silver buttons, chains, and specific traditional jewelry. Hairstyles used for the basquiña avoid single braids and are usually styled in two braids or a bun. Black shoes known as "pana" or "panitas" are typically worn, except in Darién, where the outfit is worn without shoes.[1]
Man’s Tomb Skirt
A regional variation, the man’s tomb skirt features stripes rather than floral chintz. Its name comes from the visual effect of the stripes when dancing, which is said to disorient a male dancing partner. It is associated with Villa de Los Santos, though its precise origin is debated. This style has gained popularity in recent years, especially in folkloric performances.[1]
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Bolivian and Peruvian polleras

In Bolivia and Peru the word pollera denotes a pleated skirt very much associated with the urban mestizo and the rural indigenous classes where women usually wear this garment (nowadays also instead of the woven indigenous dresses). The urban pollera typical of the Bolivian altiplano should be made of 8 metres (26 ft) of cloth and it is worn with 4–5 embroidered underskirts.[citation needed]
The skirt worn under the top pollera is called the fuste; under the fuste (in the third skirt) is typically made from wool. Many women still wear this skirt, which originates from Spanish rural dresses and for the Carnaval de Oruro or Virgen de la Candelaría festival in Peru, and other festivities. During traditional festivities women who do not usually wear it will put it on for the dancing.[citation needed]
See also
- La Verne M. Seales Soley (30 December 2008). Culture and Customs of Panama. ABC-CLIO. pp. 35–37. ISBN 978-0-313-05636-9.
- Edgardo Abraham León Madariaga (1 January 1992). La pollera, traje nacional de Panamá (in Spanish). Everest. ISBN 978-84-241-9809-1.
References
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