Jessica Pilz (born 22 November 1996) is an Austrian professional rock climber who specializes in competition climbing. She won the bronze medal in the combined bouldering and lead climbing event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.
 Pilz competing in 2017 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Personal information | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Nationality | Austrian | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Born | 22 November 1996 Haag, Austria | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Height | 165 cm (5 ft 5 in) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Weight | 52 kg (115 lb) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Climbing career | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Type of climber | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Highest grade | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| Known for |
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Medal record
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| Updated on 28 April 2019 | |||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
Climbing career
Competition climbing
Pilz started competing in 2010, both in competition lead climbing and competition bouldering. From 2011 to 2015, she won six international youth competitions in lead climbing. In 2014, she also won both the European Youth Cup and Youth Championships in bouldering.
In 2017, Pilz won the Winter Military World Games both in lead climbing and bouldering.
In 2018, Pilz won the lead climbing event at the 2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships in Innsbruck by climbing the route a few seconds faster than the former World Champion, Janja Garnbret. She won the bronze medal in the combined event at the same World Championships.
In 2019, Pilz placed 10th in the combined event at the 2019 IFSC Climbing World Championships, qualifying her for the 2020 Olympics,[1] where she finished 7th.[2]
In 2021, Pilz won the combined event at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Championships.
In 2023, Pilz qualified to compete in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics in Paris by placing second in the combined event at the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Championships.[3] Pilz won the overall title in lead climbing in the 2023 IFSC Climbing World Cup series.
In 2024, Pilz won the bronze medal in the combined event at the 2024 Summer Olympics.[4]
Rock climbing
She rarely climbs outdoors, but in January 2016, during a short trip to the famous crag of Oliana in Spain, she was able to redpoint two 8c+ (5.14c) graded sport climbing routes.[5]
Rankings
IFSC Climbing World Cup
| Discipline[6] | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022 | 2023 | 2024 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 33 | 19 | 13 | 3 | 9 | 4 | 2 | 10 | - | 10 | 1 | 1 |
| Bouldering | – | – | – | – | 25 | 58 | 11 | 5 | 12 | 7 | 17 | 11 |
| Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 57 | 63 | - | - | - | - | - |
| Combined | – | – | – | – | 3 | 10 | 4 | 3 | - | - | 4 |
IFSC Climbing World Championships
Youth[7]
| Discipline | 2010 Youth B |
2011 Youth B |
2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Junior |
2015 Junior |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 16 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 |
| Bouldering | – | – | – | – | – | 3 |
| Speed | – | – | – | – | – | 21 |
Adult[7]
| Discipline | 2016 | 2018 | 2019 | 2023 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 1 | 6 | 6 |
| Bouldering | - | 4 | 33 | 8 |
| Speed | - | 59 | 43 | - |
| Combined | - | 3 | 10 | 2 |
Climbing European Championships
Youth[7]
| Discipline | 2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Junior |
2015 Junior |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 1 | 1 | 2 | 1 |
| Bouldering | – | 2 | 1 | 2 |
Adult[7]
| Discipline | 2013 | 2015 | 2017 |
|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 11 | 3 | 3 |
| Bouldering | – | 5 | 12 |
| Speed | – | 31 | 41 |
Sport climbing at the Winter Military World Games
| Discipline | 2017 |
|---|---|
| Lead | 1 |
| Bouldering | 1 |
| Speed | 2 |
European Youth Cup
| Discipline | 2010 Youth B |
2011 Youth B |
2012 Youth A |
2013 Youth A |
2014 Junior |
2015 Junior |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lead | 5 | 2 | 2 | 6 | 2 | – |
| Bouldering | – | 3 | 5 | 12 | 1 | 2 |
Number of medals in the IFSC Climbing World Cup
Lead
| Season[7] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2014 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2015 | 3 | 3 | 6 | |
| 2016 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2017 | 1 | 1 | ||
| 2018 | 2 | 3 | 1 | 6 |
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | 2 | |
| 2020 | 0 | |||
| 2021 | 0 | |||
| 2022 | 0 | |||
| 2023 | 2 | 1 | 3 | |
| 2024 | 1 | 1 | 1 | |
| Total | 3 | 12 | 7 | 22 |
Bouldering
| Season[7] | Gold | Silver | Bronze | Total |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2019 | 1 | 1 | ||
| Total | 0 | 0 | 1 | 1 |
Gallery
Pilz receiving gold medal in lead climbing at the 2017 Winter Military World Games
Pilz competing at the European Championships in Chamonix, 2013
Pilz competing at the Winter Military World Games in Sochi, 2017
Pilz competing at the Bouldering World Cup in Munich, 2017
References
External links
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