Fabric inspection

Fabric inspection, also known as fabric checking, is a systematic fabric evaluation in which defects are identified. Fabric inspection helps understand quality in terms of color, density, weight, printing, measurement, and other quality criteria prior to garment production. Fabric inspection takes place at various stages of manufacturing, including intermediate and final. "Perching" was another term for fabric inspection.^[1][2]

Procedure

Quality control in textiles is to inspect whether a manufactured material meets the specifications set by the buyers. It is a broader aspect that includes the quality of the final product and the encompassing materials, for example, yarn and fabric. Fabric quality addresses fabric-related issues. Fabric inspection is a step of visual examination apart from the performance criteria; It finds various flaws and irregularities. Accordingly, it grades the fabrics as per quality level, fabric weight, shading color, number, and size of the defects.^[3][4][5] In addition to ensuring the quality of the garment, fabric inspection also helps manufacturing companies reduce their reject pile, essentially improving both efficiency and delivery times.^[3]

Various methods are selected in fabric inspection, including inspection on a flat table or a fabric inspection machine. In-house or third-party inspectors can do the job.

Visual Inspection and grading

Most mills use their customized inspection standards, but commonly used is the point system. It is a widely accepted system of fabric inspection as it is based on penalty points.^[6][7] For example standard test methods for visually inspecting and grading fabrics (ASTM D5430)^[8] and four-point system. Today, the 4-point system is the most commonly used fabric inspection system which as implied by the name, works with a 1 to 4 deduction system in which the highest defect rating is 4 points.^[9] In the 4-point system, fabric quality is assessed based on unit points per 100 square yards. Typically, a fabric roll is deemed satisfactory if it contains 40 points per 100 yards.^[10]

Computerized Inspection

The fabric inspection machine is equipped with lights and a table enabled with guide rollers that help the inspector or a fabric checker observe every yard.

Manual and computerized inspection are both used.^[11][12][13]

Artificial Intelligence based fabric inspection

Artificial intelligence based fabric inspection systems are being developed.^[14]

Repair and remedies

Mending

The fabric during the inspection undergoes rigorous examination systems, various defects can be located. Some of the manufacturing defects of the fabric are repairable through mending, a method of repairing with needlework.^[1]

Burling or specking

Burling is a repairing finish. It helps in improving the fabric's final appearance. During the inspection process, woven fabrics may require burling, which includes the removal of certain manufacturing defects such as burrs, knots, loose and protruding threads. Burling tools are used to push these defects to the fabric's back side.^[15]

Spotting

Spotting is a method of removing stains that can be used in the garment stage or on fabric as well.^[16]

See also

• Textile manufacturing
• Finishing (textiles)
• Barré (fabric)
• Dead cotton
• Pick glass

References

1. Stout, Evelyn E. (1970). Introduction to textiles. Internet Archive. New York, Wiley. p. 334. ISBN 978-0-471-83097-9.
2. Harder, Frances (2004). Fashion for profit : a professional's complete guide to designing, manufacturing, & marketing a successful line. Internet Archive. Rolling Hills Estate, California USA: Harder Publications. p. 110. ISBN 978-0-9727763-1-8.
3. truents (2010-10-27). "Fabric Inspection in apparel manufacturing". Textile School. Retrieved 2022-04-06.
4. Kadolph, Sara J. (2007). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J. : Pearson Prentice Hall. p. 14. ISBN 978-0-13-118769-6. Keep in mind that fabric quality is not the same thing as product quality. Fabric quality addresses the fabric used to produce the product. Other factors such as design and construction also influence product quality,
5. Kadolph, Sara J. (1998). Textiles. Internet Archive. Upper Saddle River, N.J.: Merrill. pp. 397, 405. ISBN 978-0-13-494592-7.
6. Vijayan, A.; Jadhav, A. (2015-01-01), Nayak, Rajkishore; Padhye, Rajiv (eds.), "5 - Fabric sourcing and selection", Garment Manufacturing Technology, Woodhead Publishing Series in Textiles, Woodhead Publishing, pp. 109–128, ISBN 978-1-78242-232-7, retrieved 2020-12-25
7. Sarkar, Prasanta. Garment Manufacturing: Processes, Practices and Technology. Online Clothing Study. p. 160. ISBN 978-93-83701-75-9.
8. "Textile Standards". www.astm.org. ASTM. Retrieved 2020-12-29.
9. "7 things you need to know about fabric inspection". 7 things you need to know about fabric inspection. Retrieved 2022-04-06.
10. Mehta, Pradip V.; Bhardwaj, Satish K. (1998). Managing Quality in the Apparel Industry. New Age International. p. 18. ISBN 978-81-224-1166-9.
11. Tsang, Colin S. C.; Ngan, Henry Y. T.; Pang, Grantham K. H. (2016-03-01). "Fabric inspection based on the Elo rating method". Pattern Recognition. 51: 378–394. doi:10.1016/j.patcog.2015.09.022. hdl:10722/229176. ISSN 0031-3203.
12. Nayak, Rajkishore; Padhye, Rajiv (2017-11-10). Automation in Garment Manufacturing. Woodhead Publishing. ISBN 978-0-08-101133-1.
13. Jana, Prabir (2013-02-01). "Camera Based Visual Fabric Inspection". Apparel Resources. Retrieved 2020-12-25.
14. News-Desk, Apparel Resources (2018-10-22). "Researchers develop AI based fabric detection system for textile industry | Technology News Hong Kong". Apparel Resources. Retrieved 2020-12-30.
15. Gioello, Debbie Ann (1982). Understanding fabrics : from fiber to finished cloth. Internet Archive. New York: Fairchild Publications. p. 133. ISBN 978-0-87005-377-1.
16. Souza, D. Noemia (1998). Fabric Care. New Age International. p. 116. ISBN 978-81-224-1143-0.