Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup

Competition lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup was held at five locations, from 23 June to 4 September 2021. The International Federation of Sport Climbing had initially scheduled six competition-lead climbing events concluding on 17 October, but COVID-19 travel restrictions resulted in the cancellation of the event in Xiamen, China.^[1]

Lead climbing at the 2021 IFSC Climbing World Cup
Location	Innsbruck, Austria Villars, Switzerland Chamonix, France Briançon, France Kranj, Slovenia
Dates	23 June – 4 September 2021
Champions
Men	Stefano Ghisolfi
Women	Janja Garnbret
← 2020 2022 →

The top three in each competition received medals, and at the end of the season, the overall winners were awarded trophies. The overall winners were determined based upon points, which athletes were awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. Stefano Ghisolfi won the men's seasonal title, Janja Garnbret won the women's seasonal title, and Slovenia won the national team title.^[2]

Overview

Date	Location	Venue	Route-setters*	Men	Women
June, 23–26	Innsbruck, Austria	Kletterzentrum Innsbruck[3]	Adam Pustelnik Jan Zbranek Okano Hiroshi	Jakob Schubert	Janja Garnbret
July, 1–3	Villars, Switzerland	Place du Rendez-Vous[4]	Julien Gras Christian Bindhammer Reinhard Fichtinger	Sean Bailey	Janja Garnbret
July, 12–13	Chamonix, France	Place du Mont Blanc[5]	Marcin Wszolek Vincent De Girolamo Florian Murnig	Sean Bailey	Laura Rogora
July, 17–18	Briançon, France	Parc des Sports[6]	Martin Hammerer Anna Gallyamova Alberto Gnerro	Stefano Ghisolfi	Eliška Adamovská
September, 3–4	Kranj, Slovenia	Dvorana Zlato polje[7]	Vincent De Girolamo Julien Gras Martin Hammerer	Masahiro Higuchi	Janja Garnbret
OVERALL WINNERS				Stefano Ghisolfi	Janja Garnbret
NATIONAL TEAM				Slovenia

* Chief route-setters are in bold.

Overall ranking

The overall ranking is determined based upon points, which athletes are awarded for finishing in the top 30 of each individual event. There are five competitions in the season. The national ranking is the sum of the points of that country's three best male and female athletes. Results displayed in parentheses are not counted.

Men

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:^[8]

Rank	NAME	Points	Innsbruck	Villars	Chamonix	Briançon	Kranj
1	Stefano Ghisolfi	319	2. 80	11. 31	2. 80	1. 100	12. 28
2	Sean Bailey	277	( — )	1. 100	1. 100	4. 55	15. 22
3	Masahiro Higuchi	263	4. 55	7. 43	9. 37	12. 28	1. 100
4	Luka Potočar	212	7. 43	25. 6	7. 43	8. 40	2. 80
5	Sascha Lehmann	204	3. 65	12. 28	4. 55	5. 51	26. 5
6	Martin Stráník	192.87	12. 28	32. 0.87	3. 65	3. 65	10. 34
7	Alberto Ginés López	169	5. 51	5. 51	14. 24	7. 43	( — )
8	Sebastian Halenke	160.0	57. 0	4. 55	15. 22	17. 18	3. 65
9	Domen Škofic	135	17. 18	15. 22	25. 6	10. 34	4. 55
10	Alexander Megos	127	6. 47	2. 80	( — )	( — )	( — )

Women

The results of the ten most successful athletes of the Lead World Cup 2021:^[9]

Rank	NAME	Points	Innsbruck	Villars	Chamonix	Briançon	Kranj
1	Janja Garnbret	300	1. 100	1. 100	( — )	( — )	1. 100
2	Natalia Grossman	296	25. 6	3. 65	2. 80	2. 80	3. 65
3	Laura Rogora	278	7. 43	2. 80	1. 100	( — )	4. 55
4	Vita Lukan	269	6. 47	5. 51	4. 55	3. 65	5. 51
5	Lucka Rakovec	185	8. 40	7. 43	23. 8	6. 47	6. 47
6	Aleksandra Totkova	168	18. 16	6. 47	3. 65	8. 40	( — )
7	Eliška Adamovská	162	12. 28	( — )	10. 34	1. 100	( — )
8	Momoko Abe	146	13. 26	4. 55	11. 31	25. 6	12. 28
9	Natsuki Tanii	128	( — )	( — )	5. 51	9. 37	8. 40
9	Lana Skusek	128	16. 20	11. 31	43. 0	7. 43	10. 34

National Teams

The results of the ten most successful countries of the Lead World Cup 2021:^[10]

Country names as used by the IFSC

Rank	Nation	Points	Innsbruck	Villars	Chamonix	Briançon	Kranj
1	Slovenia	1244.0	2. 274.0	2. 229.0	5. 135.0	1. 230.0	1. 376.0
2		1041.0	1. 279.0	3. 193.0	4. 158.0	5. 134.0	2. 277.0
3	United States	905.95	5. 110.55	1. 269.0	2. 237.0	2. 200.5	5. 88.9
4	Italy	796.8	3. 149.75	6. 132.85	1. 244.5	4. 164.0	4. 105.7
5	France	593.95	8. 80.75	5. 147.2	3. 192.0	7. 87.0	6. 87.0
6	Germany	547.2	10. 57.2	4. 159.0	7. 91.35	6. 95.85	3. 143.8
7	Czech Republic	396.55	7. 96.0	19. 0.9	6. 99.85	3. 165.8	13. 34.0
8	Austria	364.25	4. 117.65	7. 71.75	13. 35.5	9. 77.75	8. 61.6
9	Switzerland	340.15	6. 96.3	9. 50.4	8. 86.8	10. 70.95	12. 35.7
10	Russia	262.55	9. 57.75	11. 41.8	12. 40.0	8. 80.0	11. 43.0

Innsbruck, Austria (June, 23–26)

Men

99 men competed in the event.^[11]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi set an early high-point in the final which could only be surpassed by Austria's Jakob Schubert who took first place in front of his home crowd. Switzerland's Sascha Lehmann took third place after pushing Japan's Masahiro Higuchi to fourth place on count-back. Czech Republic's superstar Adam Ondra slipped low down on the final route and placed 8th.^[12]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Jakob Schubert	38	1	38+	3	1.73	39+	47+
	Stefano Ghisolfi	37	3	35	6	5.1	31+	47
	Sascha Lehmann	34+	8	31+	14	11.62	39+	38+
4	Masahiro Higuchi	37	3	11	89	18.97	34+	38+
5	Alberto Ginés López	32	16	34+	8	12.33	41+	37+
6	Alexander Megos	37	3	39+	2	2.83	38+	37+
7	Luka Potočar	32+	13	23	34	21.82	39+	27+
8	Adam Ondra	37+	2	TOP	1	1.41	42+	17

Women

75 women competed in the event.^[13]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret claimed the only top on the final route, claiming the win. USA's Brooke Raboutou placed second while Japan's Akiyo Noguchi placed third.^[12]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Janja Garnbret	TOP	1	TOP	1	1.41	42+	TOP
	Brooke Raboutou	39+	4	TOP	1	2.83	36.5+	40
	Akiyo Noguchi	31	11	35+	4	7.5	32+	33+
4	Viktoriia Meshkova	31+	7	33+	10	10.91	35	22+
5	Miho Nonaka	31	11	33+	10	13.23	32	22+
6	Vita Lukan	41	3	34	7	4.9	35+	19+
7	Laura Rogora	46+	2	TOP	1	2.0	42	13+
8	Lucka Rakovec	33	5	34	7	6.32	36.5+	13+

Villars, Switzerland (July, 1–3)

Men

68 men competed in the event.^[14]

USA's Sean Bailey won the gold medal. Germany's Alexander Megos took second while USA's Colin Duffy took third.^[15][16]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Sean Bailey	TOP	1	32+	18	9.64	40	38
	Alexander Megos	39+	8	TOP	1	5.61	37+	35+
	Colin Duffy	38+	16	TOP	1	7.04	36	31+
4	Sebastian Halenke	39+	8	32+	18	18.04	37+	26.5+
5	Alberto Ginés López	39+	8	33	15	12.96	40+	26.5
6	Paul Jenft	35	21	TOP	1	8.31	36	26
7	Masahiro Higuchi	39+	8	32+	18	18.04	37+	12
8	Zento Murashita	35	21	34	8	14.78	36+	11+

Women

53 women competed in the event.^[17]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret topped all the routes in the competition, taking the win. Italy's Laura Rogora also topped the final route, but took silver due to count-back. USA's Natalia Grossman took bronze.^[15][16]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Janja Garnbret	TOP	1	TOP	1	1.41	TOP	TOP
	Laura Rogora	20+	17	TOP	1	7.35	45+	TOP
	Natalia Grossman	35+	5	40+	4	5.24	34+	42+
4	Momoko Abe	36+	3	TOP	1	2.65	35+	40+
5	Vita Lukan	20+	17	40+	4	12.19	35+	40+
6	Aleksandra Totkova	32+	6	35+	11	8.46	36+	33+
7	Lucka Rakovec	37	2	40+	4	3.32	40+	17+
8	Mia Krampl	36+	3	35	12	6.48	35	17+

Chamonix, France (July, 12–13)

Men

73 men competed in the event.^[18]

USA's Sean Bailey claimed his second win in the Lead World Cup. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník fell at the same crux in the final round and placed second and third respectively on count-back.^[19][20]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Sean Bailey	37+	5	40	10	8.31	43	34+
	Stefano Ghisolfi	32+	26	TOP	1	11.62	46	32
	Martin Stráník	35+	10	39	17	14.9	43	32
4	Sascha Lehmann	37	8	TOP	1	6.0	47+	29
5	Victor Baudrand	TOP	1	38	21	5.61	41+	28+
6	Marcello Bombardi	35+	10	40+	9	10.39	41+	26+
7	Luka Potočar	33+	19	40	10	15.91	45	25+
8	Paul Jenft	32+	26	TOP	1	11.62	45+	25

Women

62 women competed in the event.^[21]

Italy's Laura Rogora topped three out of four routes in the competition, earning her a gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Bulgaria's Aleksandra Totkova placed third.^[19][20]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Laura Rogora	44+	21	TOP	1	9.81	TOP	TOP
	Natalia Grossman	50	2	TOP	1	3.24	TOP	41+
	Aleksandra Totkova	50	2	48	7	4.58	TOP	38+
4	Vita Lukan	49+	5	41+	12	8.49	TOP	38+
5	Natsuki Tanii	44+	21	47	8	14.83	TOP	32+
6	Julia Chanourdie	49	8	TOP	1	5.77	TOP	29+
7	Ashima Shiraishi	47	18	40+	14	15.87	TOP	29+
8	Dinara Fakhritdinova	49	8	TOP	1	5.77	TOP	28+

Briançon, France (July, 17–18)

Men

68 men competed in the event.^[22]

Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi fell high on the head-wall and won the gold medal. Russia's Dmitrii Fakirianov and Czech Republic's Martin Stráník placed second and third respectively.^[23][20]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Stefano Ghisolfi	32+	2	32+	4	3.0	42+	42+
	Dmitrii Fakirianov	15	52	33+	2	11.51	40+	39+
	Martin Stráník	29+	3	29	8	5.66	39+	37+
4	Sean Bailey	29+	3	27	16	8.0	42+	36
5	Sascha Lehmann	22+	16	32+	4	9.25	37+	35
6	Fedir Samoilov	29	6	27+	13	9.54	37	35
7	Alberto Ginés López	22+	16	33+	2	6.89	37	27+
8	Luka Potočar	33	1	30+	7	2.65	37	22

Women

56 women competed in the event.^[24]

Czech Republic's Eliška Adamovská claimed her first gold medal. USA's Natalia Grossman placed second while Slovenia's Vita Lukan placed third.^[23][20]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Eliška Adamovská	30	5	27+	17	9.35	TOP	36
	Natalia Grossman	34+	1	36	1	1.0	TOP	35+
	Vita Lukan	12	49	35+	2	13.1	TOP	29
4	Ashima Shiraishi	23+	23	32+	8	13.98	TOP	27+
5	Ryu Nakagawa	31+	3	24	37	11.53	36+	27+
6	Lucka Rakovec	33+	2	35+	2	2.65	TOP	26+
7	Lana Skusek	28+	7	34+	6	7.55	38	24+
8	Aleksandra Totkova	27+	14	28	15	14.73	41	22+

Kranj, Slovenia (September, 3–4)

Men

61 men competed in the event.^[25]

Japan's Masahiro Higuchi won his first World Cup gold medal. Slovenia's Luka Potočar placed second and Germany's Sebastian Halenke placed second and third respectively on count-back. Italy's Stefano Ghisolfi, placing 12th in the competition, was crowned this season overall Lead World Cup champion.^[26]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Masahiro Higuchi	29+	14	37+	8	12.96	41+	37
	Luka Potočar	18+	46	TOP	1	10.95	41	31+
	Sebastian Halenke	29+	14	38	5	9.8	40+	31+
4	Domen Škofic	TOP	1	TOP	1	3.71	29+	31+
5	Fedir Samoilov	25+	25	37+	8	16.84	37+	30+
6	Satone Yoshida	29+	14	37+	8	12.96	40+	16+
7	Milan Preskar	TOP	1	35	19	10.49	34+	15+
8	Ao Yurikusa	TOP	1	38	5	5.74	33+	15+

Women

45 women competed in the event.^[27]

Slovenia's Janja Garnbret, back from the 2020 Tokyo Olympics, claimed the gold medal and by doing so also claimed the overall Lead World Cup title. South Korea's Chaehyun Seo claimed silver while USA's Natalia Grossman claimed bronze.^[26]

Rank	Name	Qualification					Semi-Final	Final
		Route 1		Route 2		Points
		Score	Rank	Score	Rank
	Janja Garnbret	TOP	1	43+	8	5.34	47+	49+
	Chaehyun Seo	TOP	1	TOP	1	3.0	36	46
	Natalia Grossman	29+	10	TOP	1	6.0	37+	41+
4	Laura Rogora	TOP	1	TOP	1	3.0	44+	39
5	Vita Lukan	34+	6	43+	8	8.15	38+	39
6	Lucka Rakovec	29	15	44	7	10.42	36+	34+
7	Dinara Fakhritdinova	34+	6	TOP	1	4.58	35+	31+
8	Natsuki Tanii	25+	18	36	28	24.17	34+	26

References

1. "Sport climbing World Cup events in China canceled because of COVID-19". www.insidethegames.biz. 20 August 2021. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
2. "Results". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-03.
3. "2021 Innsbruck info sheet".
4. "2021 Villars info sheet".
5. "2021 Chamonix info sheet".
6. "2021 Briançon info sheet".
7. "2021 Kranj info sheet".
8. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
9. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
10. "IFSC CLIMBING WORLD CUP 2021: LEAD NATIONAL TEAM RANKING". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
11. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
12. "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Boulder World Cup Innsbruck 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
13. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (B,L) - INNSBRUCK (AUT) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
14. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
15. "Sean Bailey Wins Gold, Colin Duffy and Natalia Grossman Get Bronze at World Cup—On a Roll". Climbing. 2021-07-03. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
16. "NEWS: IFSC Lead and Speed World Cup Villars 2021". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
17. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L,S) - VILLARS (SUI) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
18. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
19. "Unreal—Another Gold for Sean Bailey, That's Two In a Row". Climbing. 2021-07-13. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
20. "NEWS: IFSC Lead World Cups Chamonix and Briançon 2021 - Report". www.ukclimbing.com. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
21. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - CHAMONIX (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
22. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
23. "Briançon Threatens to Crush Team USA Under the Weight of Medals". Climbing. 2021-07-18. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
24. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - BRIANÇON (FRA) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
25. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD MEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.
26. "Garnbret, Grossman Battle At Climbing's World Cup Lead Finals In Slovenia. Results and Highlights". Climbing. 2021-09-04. Retrieved 2021-09-06.
27. "IFSC - CLIMBING WORLD CUP (L) - KRANJ (SLO) 2021 - GENERAL RESULT LEAD WOMEN". www.ifsc-climbing.org. Retrieved 2021-09-05.