海拔8848米(29029英尺)的珠穆朗玛峰 , 是世界上最高 的山峰,也是登山家们极其渴望征服的目标之一,但是攀登它可能会很危险。 在尝试登顶的过程中,已有300多人失去了生命。 已知的最后一个没有发生死亡事件的年份是1977年,这一年只有两个人登顶。 [1]
珠穆朗玛峰北坡
大多数遇难者丧生的原因包括雪崩 、坠落、冰层剥落、暴晒、冻伤或与山区环境相关的健康问题。有些遇难者的遗体仍未被发现,因此无法获得这些遇难者死因的详细信息。
珠穆朗玛峰的上层位于死亡区域(death zone)之中。死亡区域是登山运动 中的术语,指的是某一特定高度(大约为8000米或26000英尺)以上的区域或气压低于356毫巴/百帕(即5.16 psi,标准大气压 为1013毫巴/百帕)的区域;在死亡区域中,氧气分压 水平不足以维持人类生存。[2] 高海拔登山运动中的许多遇难者都是由于死亡区域的特殊环境而直接(即直接导致生命体征 的消失)或间接(由于精神压力或身体虚弱而做出错误的判断或决定,从而引起了致命的事故)地引起。由于耗氧速度超过了获得氧气的速度,人体无法适应死亡区域的环境。在不携带额外氧气的情况下长期逗留在死亡区域内,会导致身体机能的恶化、失去知觉、乃至死亡。[3] [4] [5]
从北侧(黄线)和南侧(橙线)到珠穆朗玛峰山顶的路线
攀登珠峰最受欢迎的路线是尼泊尔一侧的南坡路线和中国西藏一侧的北坡路线。 [6]
在珠峰上有记录的第一次死亡事件是在1922年英国珠穆朗玛峰探险中发生的,当时有七个搬运工在雪崩中丧生。 在场的乔治·马洛里 ( George Mallory )认为自己需要为这些遇难者负责。 [7] 在1921年英国侦察远征期间,有2人在途中死亡,包括一名身份不明的搬运工以及因心脏病发作而去世的A.M. Kellas博士。 [8]
巴布·奇里·夏尔巴(Babu Chiri Sherpa)曾10次登顶珠峰,在1999年登顶时在峰顶逗留了20小时,创下当时的纪录。 [9] 他还曾经在两周内两次登上了山顶,并保持了从大本营 到登顶的最快攀登时间纪录——16小时56分钟。 他于2001年死于二号营地附近的一场坠落事故。 经验丰富的向导罗伯·霍尔 在成为第一位登顶五次的非夏尔巴人(1996年)之后不久在珠穆朗玛峰上去世。
绿靴子 照片,图中是Tsewang Paljor的遗体 [10] ,这一幕已经成为了珠穆朗玛峰 东北主山脊登顶路线上的地标
这座山上最耸人听闻的悲剧是发生于1996年5月11日的1996年珠穆朗玛峰登山事故 ,事故中八人在尝试登顶时丧生。 在那个登山季,有15人在尝试登顶时丧生,使其成为当时该山历史上死亡人数最多的一年。两本书详细介绍了这场灾难,分别是乔恩·克拉考尔 ( Jon Krakauer)的《化为稀薄空气》 (Into Thin Air) 和阿纳托利·布克列耶夫 ( Anatoli Boukreev)的 《攀登》(The Climb) ,他们都是当时在珠峰的登山家,但这两本书的叙述相互矛盾。 从统计数字上来看,对于珠穆朗玛峰的登山者来说,1996年还是相对安全的一年。 在1996年之前,有四分之一的登山者在登顶过程中丧生,而在1996年,这一比例只有七分之一。 [11]
在2014年和2015年的登山季中,各种悲剧造成了十多人遇难。 2014年,成功从南坡登顶的人很少,而2015年则连一个都没有。 2014年4月18日,在一次雪崩 中,有16名夏尔巴人 遇难。 [12] [13] [14] 2015年4月25日,尼泊尔发生了一次7.8级地震 ,随后大本营遭遇了雪崩,19人丧生,而地震共造成尼泊尔9,000多人丧生和23,000多人受伤。 [15] [16] [17] 这是珠穆朗玛峰历史上单日死亡人数最高的一天。2019年的登山季中,登山者人鼠创下了历史新高,这一个登山季中有11人在珠穆朗玛峰上死亡。在社交媒体上分享的视频向人们展示了攀登者们排长队等待上山的过程。 [18]
由于将遗体送下山需要面临重重困难和危险,大多数在山上遇难的人仍然留在原地。1984年10月24日,两名尼泊尔登山者在试图带走Hannelore Schmatz的遗体时不幸遇难。[19] 1999年,在山顶附近的集水盆地中搜寻乔治·马洛里的 尸体时,搜索人员在雪地里发现了多具遗体,其中包括马洛里本人。 [20] [註 1]
八千米高峰死亡名单
珠穆朗玛峰死亡统计资料清单
珠穆朗玛峰记录清单
绒布冰川
攀登珠穆朗玛峰的时间表
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[[Category:登山史]]
[[Category:条目有永久失效的外部链接]]