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American monthly women's fashion magazine From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Harper's Bazaar is an American monthly women's fashion magazine. It was first published in New York City on November 2, 1867, as the weekly Harper's Bazar.[2] Harper's Bazaar is published by Hearst and considers itself to be the style resource for "women who are the first to buy the best, from casual to couture".[3] Since its debut in 1867, as the U.S.'s first fashion magazine,[citation needed] its pages have been home to talent such as the founding editor, author and translator Mary Louise Booth, as well as numerous fashion editors, photographers, illustrators and writers. Harper's Bazaar targets an audience of professional women ranging from their twenties to sixties, who are interested in culture, travel, and luxury experiences.[4]
 | |
 Cover of the May 2024 issue, featuring Christy Turlington | |
| Editor-in-chief | Samira Nasr |
|---|---|
| Categories | Fashion |
| Frequency | Monthly |
| Publisher | 1867–1913, Harper & Brothers |
| Total circulation (2023) | 740,242[1] |
| First issue | November 2, 1867, New York City |
| Company | Hearst Magazines |
| Country | United States |
| Based in | New York City |
| Language | English |
| Website | harpersbazaar |
| ISSN | 0017-7873 |
The name change to Harper's Bazaar was filed on December 30, 1930.[2] However, the first magazine that showed the spelling "bazaar" on the cover came earlier with the November 1929 issue.
Harper's Bazaar's corporate offices are located in the Hearst Tower, 300 West 57th Street or 959 Eighth Avenue, near Columbus Circle in Midtown Manhattan, New York City.
The current editor-in-chief of the U.S. edition is Samira Nasr.[5]
Book publishers Harper & Brothers founded the magazine based in New York City on November 2, 1867.[6][7] This company also gave birth to Harper's Magazine.
Harper's Bazar began publication as a tabloid-size weekly newspaper catering to women in the middle and upper classes. It showcased fashion from Germany and Paris in a newspaper-design format. In fact, it was directly inspired by and modeled on a German fashion magazine Der Bazar, and received content from the German magazine in its early years, often publishing it simultaneously.[8][9] It was not until 1901 Harper's moved to a monthly issued magazine which it maintains today. Now Harper's Bazaar is owned and operated by Hearst in the United States and the National Magazine Company in the United Kingdom. Hearst purchased the magazine in 1913.[7]
As the turn of the century began in America, Harper's Bazar began featuring both illustrations and photographs for its covers and inside features of high society and increasingly of fashion.[citation needed]
During the late Victorian period, as the women's suffrage movement was gaining momentum (American women did not all win the right to vote until 1920 with the passing of the 19th Amendment), the introduction of more tailored dresses and jackets coincided with women's new sense of feminism. Bazaar also began profiling prominent socialites, such as the Astors and the Griscoms. In its early years, Harper's Bazaar focused primarily on society news, women's issues, and literature. The magazine featured articles, short stories, and serialized novels by notable authors such as Henry James, Edith Wharton, and Virginia Woolf.
In 1933, editor-in-chief Carmel Snow (a former editor at Vogue) brought photojournalist Martin Munkacsi to a windswept beach to shoot a swimwear spread. As the model ran toward the camera, Munkacsi took the picture that made fashion-magazine history. Until that moment, nearly all fashion was carefully staged on mannequin-like models in a studio. Snow's buoyant spirit (she rarely slept or ate, although she had a lifelong love affair with the three-martini lunch) and wicked sense of adventure brought life to the pages of Bazaar. Snow's genius came from cultivating the "best" people. Her first big find was art director Alexey Brodovitch, who innovated Bazaar's iconic Didot logo. Brodovitch is perhaps best known for his work with Richard Avedon, who, as a young photographer, was so determined to work at Bazaar that he endured the humiliation of 14 canceled interviews before finally being hired. Snow also unleashed the force of nature known as Diana Vreeland, whom she brought on as fashion editor in 1936. The collaboration of these four visionaries resulted in some of the germane fashion shoots of the 20th century and ended only with Snow's retirement, at age 70, in 1957.[10] The publication in the September 15, 1937 issue of Man Ray's photograph of his partner, the Guadeloupean model and dancer Adrienne Fidelin, was the first time a Black model was featured in a major American fashion magazine.[11] Carmel Snow was living in Ireland before her mother, Annie White paid for her and her sisters immigration to America when she was 8-years-old.[12]
In 1934, newly installed Bazaar editor Carmel Snow attended an Art Directors Club of New York exhibition curated by 36-year-old graphic designer Alexey Brodovitch and immediately offered Brodovitch a job as Bazaar's art director. Throughout his career at the magazine, Brodovitch, a Russian émigré (by way of Paris), revolutionized magazine design. With his directive "Astonish me", he inspired some of the greatest visual artists of the 20th century (including protégés Irving Penn, Hiro, Gleb Derujinsky, and, of course, Richard Avedon). One of his assistants was future Rolling Stone art director Tony Lane. Brodovitch's signature use of white space, his innovation of Bazaar's iconic Didot logo, and the cinematic quality that his obsessive cropping brought to layouts (not even the work of Man Ray and Henri Cartier-Bresson was safe from his busy scissors) compelled Truman Capote to write, "What Dom Pérignon was to champagne ... so [Brodovitch] has been to ... photographic design and editorial layout." Brodovitch's personal life was less triumphant. Plagued by alcoholism, he left Bazaar in 1958 and eventually moved to the south of France, where he died in 1971.
When Carmel Snow saw Diana Vreeland dancing on the roof of New York's St. Regis Hotel in a white lace Chanel dress and a bolero with roses in her hair one evening in 1936, she knew she'd found Bazaar's newest staffer. Diana, who is said to have invented the word "pizzazz", first came to the attention of readers with her "Why Don't You ...?" column. (A typical suggestion: "Why don't you ... wear, like the Duchess of Kent, three enormous diamond stars arranged in your hair in front?") Before long, she became fashion editor, collaborating with photographers Louise Dahl-Wolfe, Alexey Brodovitch, and Richard Avedon and, later, art director Henry Wolf. Her eccentricity, perception and wit, as well as her sharp wit and sweeping pronouncements ("I adore that pink! It's the navy blue of India," "Elegance is refusal!"), were memorialized in the movie Funny Face, making her, for many, the prototypical fashion-magazine editor.
Richard Avedon began creating fashion portfolios for Harper's Bazaar at age 22. His distinctive photographs showed both chic insouciance and boundless vitality. Avedon's women leapt off curbs, roller-skated on the Place de la Concorde, and were seen in nightclubs, enjoying the freedom and fashions of the postwar era. He wanted his art in photos to be in the moment for his models, to be much more natural and raw. The goal always for him was to eliminate the background and pull focus to the main subject of the photograph, such as a model in the desert suffering from being stranded in the middle of nowhere. His minimalist style of photography created this new theme in fashion where less can be more. Amazingly, he carved a pathway for models to show their true selves in modeling. [citation needed]
He was immortalized in the film Funny Face by the character Dick Avery (played by Fred Astaire), who asked, "What's wrong with bringing out a girl who has character, spirit, and intelligence?" Alongside Fred Astaire was the leading lady Audrey Hepburn who portrays a "plain" girl who ultimately blossoms into a beautiful women. Avedon contributed many stills of Audrey Hepburn to the film, although he did not believe it truly captured her beauty, because getting to know her set her beauty on whole another level that just could not be caught in a photo.[citation needed]
Being photographed by Avedon for the February 1959 issue of Harper's Bazaar, China Machado was one of the first non-caucasian models to appear on the pages of a fashion magazine.[13]
Gleb Derujinsky's 18-year career at Harper's Bazaar spanned from 1950 to 1968 and during that time produced some of the classic images of the era. Scouted by editor-in-chief Carmel Snow and art director Alexey Brodovitch, Derujinsky joined the elite group of photographers, including Richard Avedon, who shot for the magazine. Working closely with the then fashion editor Diana Vreeland, Derujinsky proved a pioneer in his field, creating stunning juxtapositions between European Haute Couture dresses and landscapes ranging from desert sands to car junkyards, fairgrounds and airports, all this at a time when air travel was yet to become as common as it is now. "Avedon shot dresses and clothes, Gleb shot women living in them".[14]
To mark the inauguration of Pan Am's Boeing 707 in 1957, Derujinsky traveled across the world with Nena von Schlebrügge, and Ruth Neumann, whom he would later marry. The latter would be his muse from the seaside harbors of China, to the Nara Deer Park in Japan, and throughout Thailand, Spain and Greece. The 1957 Paris Collections were the basis for a 25-page spread in Harper's Bazaar featuring his photographs. "Gleb Derujinsky's photographs evoke the best of Harper's Bazaar: exquisitely beautiful, original, and instantly iconic images of a very fashionable life".[15]
Nonnie Moore was hired as fashion editor in 1980, having served in the same post at Mademoiselle.[16] The New York Times noticed the changes she made at Harper's Bazaar, highlighting how the magazine had been "looking a little dowdy", but that Moore had "noticeably sharpened the magazine's fashion point of view" by showing "brighter, younger and more stylish", complimenting her use of "young and exciting fashion photographers", such as Oliviero Toscani.[17]
Harper's Bazaar has 29 editions worldwide.
In publication
Defunct
Harper's Bazaar Arabia was launched in March of 2007 and is published by ITP Media Group and based in Dubai.[36] The brand also publishes Harper's Bazaar Art, Interiors and Junior titles.
In July 2018 Harper's Bazaar Arabia became the first magazine to have a Saudi Arabian woman on the cover when they featured Taleedah Tamer as their July/August cover girl.[37]
Harper's Bazaar Australia is based in Sydney. The magazine originally ran from 1984 to 1990. The magazine was relaunched in March 1998 with Nicole Kidman on the cover. The magazines current editor is Jillian Davison, who started the position in 2021.
In July 2020 the magazines publisher Bauer Media Australia shuttered the publication citing declining advertising revenue and travel restrictions caused by the COVID-19 pandemic.[38][39] The magazine resumed publication in September 2021 as Harper's Bazaar Australia/New Zealand and is now published by Switzer Media and Publishing.[40]
In November 2001 Best China Fashion was launched. In September of 2002 it took on the Harper's Bazaar name before fully rebranding in 2005.
Harper's Bazaar En Español is the Mexican and Latin American edition of Harper's Bazaar.
Editors
Harper's Bazaar India launched in 2009 with Kareena Kapoor on the cover.[41] The magazine is based in Mumbai.[42]
Editors
Harper's Bazaar Singapore published its first Singapore edition of the magazine on November 4, 2001. It is published by SPH Magazines.
In 2015, Harper's Bazaar Singapore launched its website.[45]
Harper's Bazaar Singapore has won several awards, including a MPAS Awards 2018 for Fashion Media of the Year (Gold).[46][47] The magazine was also the media partner for the first four seasons of Asia's Next Top Model.
Kenneth Goh has been the editor-in-chief of the magazine since 2014.[48]
The Harper's Bazaar UK edition was first published in London in 1929.[49] In November 1970, New York City-based Hearst Communications amalgamated it with Queen magazine (which dated from 1862) to form Harpers & Queen. The magazine was widely perceived to be focused on British "high society" and the lives of socialites and the British aristocracy. In March 2006, it was renamed Harper's Bazaar, bringing it in line with its international sister titles, and repositioned as a more celebrity-oriented fashion magazine. Harper's Bazaar UK has a long history of literary contributions from leading writers, including Evelyn Waugh, Henry James, Thomas Hardy, and Virginia Woolf. It maintains that connection today, with recent articles written by Ali Smith, Jeanette Winterson, and Margaret Atwood, and runs its own Literary Salon.
The magazine was founded based in Ho Chi Minh City on June 27, 2011, the Vietnamese version of Harper's Bazaar is called Phong cách Harper's Bazaar as a result of merging Harper's Bazaar and Phong cách.[51]
Harper's Bazaar Vietnam was also a co-sponsor of the first season of Project Runway Vietnam (local title: Nhà thiết kế thời trang Việt Nam).
In 2014, Harper's Bazaar Vietnam launched its website.[52]
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