Haramosh Peak

Haramosh Peak (Urdu: ہراموش چوٹی), also known as Haramosh or Peak 58, is a Karakoram range mountain located in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The 7,409-metre Haramosh Peak is situated roughly 65 kilometres (40 mi) to the east of Gilgit, within the south-central part of the Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, which is a subrange of the Karakoram range. This mountain rises steeply above the north bank of the Indus River, just upstream from its confluence with the Gilgit River.

Heramosh Peak
ہراموش چوٹی
Haramosh in 2008
Highest point
Elevation	7,409 m (24,308 ft)[1][2] Ranked 67th
Prominence	2,277 m (7,470 ft)[1]
Listing	Ultra
Coordinates	35°50′24″N 74°53′51″E[1]
Geography
Heramosh Peak Location in Pakistan
30km 19miles Pakistan India 48 47 46 45 44 43 42 41 40 39 38 37 36 35 34 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1     The major peaks in Karakoram are rank identified by height. Legend： 1：K2,  2：Gasherbrum I, K5,  3：Broad Peak,  4：Gasherbrum II, K4,  5：Gasherbrum III, K3a,  6：Gasherbrum IV, K3,  7：Distaghil Sar,  8：Kunyang Chhish,  9：Masherbrum, K1,  10：Batura Sar, Batura I,  11：Rakaposhi,  12：Batura II,  13：Kanjut Sar,  14：Saltoro Kangri, K10,  15：Batura III,  16： Saser Kangri I, K22,  17：Chogolisa,  18：Shispare,  19：Trivor Sar,  20：Skyang Kangri,  21：Mamostong Kangri, K35,  22：Saser Kangri II,  23：Saser Kangri III,  24：Pumari Chhish,  25：Passu Sar,  26：Yukshin Gardan Sar,  27：Teram Kangri I,  28：Malubiting,  29：K12,  30：Sia Kangri,  31：Momhil Sar,  32：Skil Brum,  33：Haramosh Peak,  34：Ghent Kangri,  35：Ultar Sar,  36：Rimo massif,  37：Sherpi Kangri,  38：Yazghil Dome South,  39：Baltoro Kangri,  40：Crown Peak,  41：Baintha Brakk,  42：Yutmaru Sar,  43：K6,  44：Muztagh Tower,  45：Diran,  46：Apsarasas Kangri I,  47：Rimo III,  48：Gasherbrum V   Location in Pakistan
Location	Gilgit–Baltistan, Pakistan
Parent range	Rakaposhi-Haramosh Mountains, Karakoram
Climbing
First ascent	1958 by an Austrian team
Easiest route	rock/snow/ice climb

Haramosh Peak
Simplified Chinese	哈拉莫什峰
Transcriptions

The Haramosh massif consists of two main summits: Haramosh Peak and Haramosh Kutwal Laila Peak.^[3] The Haramosh Peak was first successfully climbed in 1958 by an Austrian team comprising Heini Roiss, Stephan Pauer, and Dr. Franz Mandl.^[4]

Climbing history

Haramosh was first reconnoitered in 1947 when a Swiss team explored the area. Subsequently, in 1955, a German team investigated a potential northeastern route to the mountain. However, it was in 1957 that Haramosh became the site of an ill-fated expedition. A team from Oxford University, consisting of Tony Streather, John Emery, Bernard Jillot, and Rae Culbert, attempted to conquer the peak but faced a series of mishaps and misfortunes during their ascent. This expedition led to the loss of Bernard Jillot and Rae Culbert's lives, while Tony Streather and John Emery survived.^[5] Emery, however, endured severe frostbite and lost all of his fingers and toes as a result of the ordeal. The epic tale of this expedition is told in Ralph Barker's The Last Blue Mountain.^[6]

Haramosh was first climbed on 4 August 1958 by three Austrian mountaineers: Heinrich Roiss, Stefan Pauer and Franz Mandl, via the Haramosh La (a saddle to the northeast) and the East Ridge, roughly the route of the 1957 tragedy.^[7]

According to the Himalayan Index,^[8] there have been only three more ascents, in 1978 (Japanese, West Ridge), 1979 (unknown party/route), and 1988 (Polish, Southwest Face).