Type of knot From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Figure-eight loop (also figure-eight on a bight, figure-eight follow-through, figure-eight retrace, Flemish loop, or Flemish eight) is a type of knot created by a loop on the bight. It is used in climbing and caving.
The Flemish loop or figure-eight loop is perhaps stronger than the loop knot. Neither of these knots is used at sea, as they are hard to untie. In hooking a tackle to any of the loops, if the loop is long enough it is better to arrange the rope as a cat's paw.
| Figure-eight loop | |
|---|---|
| |
| Names | Figure-eight loop, Flemish loop |
| Category | Loop |
| Related | figure-eight knot, flemish bend, Figure-of-nine loop, spider hitch |
| Releasing | Jamming |
| Typical use | climbing, caving |
| Caveat | jams |
| ABoK | #1047, #531 |
| Instructions | |
The double figure eight is used to put a loop in the end of a rope, or around an object. It is relatively easy to tie and is secure, but can become difficult to untie after heavy loading, and can jam badly in any rope type.
A figure-eight loop is created by doubling the rope into a bight, then tying the standard figure-eight knot.
In climbing, this knot is used to save time when repeatedly attaching the rope to climbing harnesses, using locking carabiners, such as when a group of people are climbing on the same top-rope.[2]
Alternatively, to tie the knot directly around an object, the follow-through method must be used.
This is the standard method for attaching a rope to a climbing harness.[3][4]
Often an additional strangle knot (which is half of a double fisherman's knot) "backup knot" is tied in the tail of the figure 8.[5][6][7][8] This is not required for the knot's integrity during climbing,[3][2][9][10][11][12] but could prevent ring-loading failure if belaying from the rope loop (instead of a dedicated belay loop).[13][14] It also ensures that adequate tail length has been included, and gets excess tail out of the way.[15] If the finish knot is not included, the tail should be 4 to 8 inches long.[3][16][17][18][10] The tail can also be tucked back into the knot, called a "Yosemite finish" or "Yosemite tuck".[19] This holds the bottom loop open, making the knot easier to untie after falling, but also making it weaker in a ring-loading configuration.[20][21]
The diameter of the loop should be kept small to avoid being caught on protrusions while falling, or clipped into accidentally while lead climbing.[3] A well-dressed knot has a symmetrical appearance, with the strands parallel through each curve.[3][22]
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