Council of Fashion Designers of America
Not-for-profit trade association From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
The Council of Fashion Designers of America, Inc. (CFDA), founded in 1962 by publicist Eleanor Lambert,[2] and headquartered in Manhattan, is a not-for-profit trade association comprising a membership of over 450 American fashion and accessory designers. The organization promotes American designers' participation in the global economy.
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| Abbreviation | CFDA |
|---|---|
| Formation | 1962 |
| Founder | Eleanor Lambert |
| Type | Trade association |
| Legal status | Nonprofit organization |
| Purpose | To strengthen the impact of American fashion in the global economy |
| Location | |
| Fields | Fashion |
| Membership | 484[1] (2019) |
Chairman | Thom Browne |
CEO | Steven Kolb |
| Website | cfda |
In addition to hosting the annual CFDA Fashion Awards, the organization develops future American design talent through scholarships and resources in high schools, colleges, and postgraduate schools. The CFDA also provides funding and business opportunities for working designers. Through the CFDA Foundation, the organization engages in various charitable activities.
History
The first president of the CFDA was Sydney Wragge[3] (1962–1965). Steven Kolb has been the CEO since 2006. As of January 2023, Thom Browne is the group's chairman; he follows Tom Ford, who served as chairman for three years. Additionally, Diane von Furstenberg served as chairman for 13 years from 2006 until 2019.[4]
These people founded the CFDA in 1962:
- Bill Blass[5]
- Donald Brooks[6]
- Betty Carol[6]
- Jane Derby[6]
- Luis Estevez[7]
- David Evins[6]
- Rudi Gernreich[5]
- Bud Kilpatrick[6]
- Helen Lee[6]
- Jean Louis[6]
- John Moore[6]
- Norman Norell[5]
- Sylvia Pedlar[6]
- Sarmi[6]
- Arnold Scaasi[5]
- Adele Simpson[6]
- Gustave Tassell
- Pauline Trigère[5]
- Sydney Wragge[6]
- Ben Zuckerman[6]
CFDA Fashion Awards
Summarize
Perspective
The CFDA Fashion Awards were founded in 1980 with the first awards given in 1981. They honor and showcase excellence in fashion design.[8] The CFDA Fashion Awards were created by the Council of Fashion Designers of America. They have been sometimes referred to as "the Oscars of fashion".[9][10] Prior to the establishment of the CFDA Awards, the Coty Awards fulfilled a similar role until they ended in 1985, with the final Coty Awards bestowed in September 1984.[11][12] In 1997, the CFDA Fashion Awards began including emerging designers.[13][14]
Nominations are submitted by the Fashion Guild, a group of over 1,500 CFDA members including fashion editors, retailers, and stylists.[15] Award winners are determined by vote and announced at an annual black tie event held in Manhattan. Award winners receive a trophy made by the New York firm Society Awards.[16]
For the 2022 and 2023 editions, Amazon Fashion sponsored the event.[17][18]
1980s
The CFDA Awards have been given out since 1981.[19] The 1981 awards were given out at the first annual CFDA awards ceremony on January 14, 1982 at a dinner in the New York Public Library.[20][21] The winners had been announced two months before the ceremony[20] which was originally scheduled for a television extravaganza in the fall of 1981.[21] CFDA president Bill Blass had set off controversy when he announced that all of the nominees will be named winners to avoid televising designers as they lose awards.[21][22] In response, nominee Geoffrey Beene rejected the award and said, "The industry needs a major award for its merit, not its emotion."[22]
Under the new CFDA president Perry Ellis, the 1984 CFDA awards in January 1985 had a broadened set of awards that included awards for MTV, Nike billboards, and Details magazine.[23][24][25] According to Donna Karan, who headed the awards committee, "We wanted these awards to go beyond designers. It`s all about creativity and the whole scope of fashion."[24] After the Coty Awards were discontinued 1985, the CFDA Awards were seen as the top honors in the fashion industry[23][26][20] with the wider variety of awards making the event more interesting and modern.[23][27] James Galanos received the first CFDA "Lifetime Achievement Award" in 1984,[24] which the CFDA named after Geoffrey Beene.[28] At the 1984 awards, Bill Blass presented the "Eugenia Sheppard fashion award" to Earl Blackwell and said it would be given annually "for outstanding contribution to fashion journalism."[25] However, Women's Wear Daily later reported that Etta Froio, editor of Women's Wear Daily and W, won the first "Eugenia Sheppard award" in 1986.[29]
The CFDA Awards were staged at the New York Public Library until they moved to the Metropolitan Museum of Art for the 1986 awards in January 1987.[20][27][30] The CFDA's first "Perry Ellis Award" for new fashion talent was given to David Cameron in 1986, the award was named after the former council president who died that year.[30][31][32]
| Year | Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award | Womenswear Designer | Menswear Designer | Accessory Designer | Emerging Talent Award | International Award | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1981 | none | Geoffrey Beene; Perry Ellis; Calvin Klein (tie) | Jhane Barnes; Ralph Lauren; Alexander Julian (tie) | Barry Kieselstein-Cord (jewelry); Alex Mate and Lee Brooks (costume jewelry); Nancy Knox (men's shoes) (special awards for each) | none | Yves Saint Laurent (worldwide influence/International Fashion Award) | [21][33] |
| 1982 | none | Norma Kamali | Perry Ellis | none | none | Karl Lagerfeld for Chloé (outstanding designer outside the U.S.) | [34][35] |
| 1983 | none | Calvin Klein | Perry Ellis | Patricia Underwood (hats) | none | Issey Miyake; Giorgio Armani | [36] |
| 1984 | James Galanos | none | none | none | Stephen Sprouse (best new designer) | none | [24][37] |
| 1985 | Katharine Hepburn; Alexander Liberman | Donna Karan (outstanding designer of the year); Geoffrey Beene; Liz Claiborne; Norma Kamali (outstanding video presentations) | Robert Lee Morris (jewelry); Ray-Ban (sunglasses) | none | none | [38][26] | |
| 1986 | Bill Blass; Marlene Dietrich | Geoffrey Beene (outstanding American designer of the year); Donna Karan ("impact on the total look of fashion"); Ralph Lauren (retailer of the year) | none | David Cameron | Christian Lacroix for Patou | [31][39][40] | |
| 1987 | Giorgio Armani | Ronaldus Shamask | Marc Jacobs | ||||
| 1988 | Richard Avedon; Nancy Reagan | Bill Robinson | |||||
| 1989 | Oscar de la Renta | Isaac Mizrahi | Joseph Abboud | [41] | |||
Other awards:
- 1981: Special awards for Robert Lighton - khaki sportswear; Andrew Fezza - leather for men[21] (or Award for Menswear);[42] and Fernando Sanchez - Excellence in At-Homewear and Lingerie.[43]
- 1982 Awards: Outstanding fashion illustrator: Antonia Lopez. Outstanding fashion photographer: Bill Cunningham.[34][35]
- 1984 Awards: Astor Place Hair Designers - influence on contemporary hair design in America; Annie Flanders - fresh approach to fashion journalism as editor and publisher of Details magazine;[24] Kitty D`Alessio, president of Chanel - "revitalizing Chanel's image in the U.S.;"[44] John Fairchild, chairman of Fairchild Publications - M magazine;[24] Ira Neimark and Dawn Mello - rejuvenating Bergdorf Goodman[25]/leadership in retailing;[24] Peter Moore - Nike billboard advertising campaign; Bruce Weber - fashion advertising photography; Robert W. Pittman, executive vice president of MTV - MTV`s role in modern communications and its influence on fashion[24]/"opening our eyes to a new medium";[25] and Diana Vreeland, special consultant to the Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum of Art - "unparalleled contribution to the world of fashion as an art."[24]
- 1985 Awards: Michael Mann, producer of the television series Miami Vice, for its overall style influence. Claudio Segovia and Héctor Orezzoli for bringing Tango Argentino to Broadway. Special tribute and fashion show for designer Rudi Gernreich who died in 1985.[38][26]
- 1986 Awards: Dalma Callado, model - personifying the spirit of fashion for 1986; Elsa Klensch, the style editor of Cable News Network - bringing fashion to television; and Elle magazine.[31]
1990s
Reportedly the CFDA's first "International Award" was given to Gianni Versace in 1992[45][46] although it was previously reported that Christian Lacroix received the CFDA's first international award in 1986[31][40] and that Yves Saint Laurent received a CFDA international award in 1981.[21][33] Princess Diana attended the awards in January 1995 to present a special award to her friend Elizabeth Tilberis, the British-born Editor-in-Chief of Harper's Bazaar.[47][48][49]
In 1997, for the first time, the CFDA did not release all of the award winners before the awards ceremony. The nominees of the "Perry Ellis Awards" were announced at a press conference in November 1997 but the winners were not named until the February 1998 awards ceremony.[50][51] In 1999, the date of the event was changed from January to June[20] when the awards were televised for the first time, as the 18th Annual American Fashion Awards on E! Entertainment Television, marking the beginning of a five-year partnership with General Motors.[52][53]
| Year | Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award | Womenswear Designer | Menswear Designer | Accessory Designer | Perry Ellis Award for New Talent | International Award | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1990 | Martha Graham | Donna Karan | Joseph Abboud | Manolo Blahnik | Christian Francis Roth | none | [54] |
| 1991 | Ralph Lauren | Isaac Mizrahi | Roger Forsythe for Perry Ellis | Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel | Todd Oldham | none | [55][56][57] |
| 1992 | Pauline Trigère | Marc Jacobs for Perry Ellis | Donna Karan | Chrome Hearts | Anna Sui | Gianni Versace ( Italy) |
[45][46] |
| 1993 | Judith Leiber and Polly Allen Mellen | Calvin Klein | Calvin Klein | none | Richard Tyler (womenswear); John Bartlett (menswear) | Prada (accessories) ( Italy) |
[58][59][60] |
| 1994 | Carrie Donovan, Bernadine Morris, and Nonnie Moore | Richard Tyler | none | Robert Lee Morris (womenswear); Gene Meyer (menswear) | Victor Alfaro and Cynthia Rowley (tie) (womenswear); Robert Massimo Freda (menswear) | none | [49][32][61] |
| 1995 | Hubert de Givenchy | Ralph Lauren | Tommy Hilfiger | Hush Puppies | Marie-Anne Oudejans for Tocca (womenswear); Richard Tyler and Richard Edwards (by Richard Bengtsson and Edward Pavlick) (tie) (menswear); Kate Spade (accessories) | Tom Ford for Gucci | [62][32] |
| 1996 | Arnold Scaasi | Donna Karan | Ralph Lauren | Elsa Peretti for Tiffany & Co | Daryl Kerrigan for Daryl K (womenswear); Gene Meyer (menswear); Kari Sigerson and Miranda Morrison for Sigerson Morrison (accessories) | Helmut Lang ( Austria) |
[63][64] |
| 1997 | Geoffrey Beene | Marc Jacobs | John Bartlett | Kate Spade | Narciso Rodriguez (womenswear); Sandy Dalal (menswear) | John Galliano
( |
[50][51] |
| 1999 | Yves Saint Laurent | Michael Kors | Calvin Klein | Marc Jacobs | Josh Patner and Bryan Bradley for Tuleh (womenswear); Matt Nye (menswear); Tony Valentine (accessories) | Yohji Yamamoto
( |
[53] |
Other awards:
- 1990: Eugenia Sheppard Award for fashion journalism - Genevieve Buck, fashion editor of The Chicago Tribune. Special awards went to Emilio Pucci for design and color genius, and Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of Vogue, for contribution to fashion. Special tribute to Roy Halston Frowick.[54]
- 1991: Women of the Arts awards went to actress Anjelica Huston, opera singer Jessye Norman, and dancer/choreographer Judith Jamison. Eugenia Sheppard Award - Marylou Luther of the Los Angeles Times Syndicate. Special awards went to Harley Davidson for bringing motorcycle leather jackets and bike accessories into the mainstream of fashion, and Marvin Traub, former chairman of Bloomingdale's, for retail innovation.[55][56]
- 1992: Special awards went to Audrey Hepburn for a Lifetime of Style and her commitment to the children of the world, Steven Meisel for photography, and Patrick O'Connell for the Ribbon Project of Visual AIDS.[45][46]
- 1993: Eugenia Sheppard Award - New York Times photographer Bill Cunningham; special award for sneakers shared by Converse, Adidas, Keds, Nike and Reebok; and special award for art direction for Fabien Baron, creative director of Harper's Bazaar. Salute to CFDA founder Eleanor Lambert.[58]
- 1994: Eugenia Sheppard Award - Patrick McCarthy, executive vice president of Fairchild Publications. Special awards went to Elizabeth Tilberis, editor in chief of Harper's Bazaar, for contribution to the fashion industry[49]/editorial achievement;[65] Sara Lee Corp. for "The Year of the Wonderbra"; and Kevyn Aucoin for "The Artistry of Makeup". Special tribute to Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis for her "lifetime of style and grace and influence on American fashion."[49]
- 1995: Lifetime of Style Award - Lauren Bacall; Eugenia Sheppard Award - Suzy Menkes of International Herald Tribune; The Dom Perignon Award for Humanitarian Leadership - Bill Blass. Special awards went to Isaac Mizrahi and Douglas Keeve for the film Unzipped, for bringing the fashion world into the theater; and Robert Isabell for floral design.[62][66]
- 1996: Dom Perignon award for Humanitarian Leadership - Kenneth Cole; Eugenia Sheppard award - New York Times fashion critic Amy Spindler; and special award for "furthering fashion as art and culture" - Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute's curator Richard Martin and associate curator Harold Koda.[63][64]
- 1997: Lifetime of Glamour Award - Elizabeth Taylor; Dom Perignon Award for Humanitarian Leadership - Ralph Lauren; Stiletto Award - Manolo Blahnik; Global Influence on Fashion - Anna Wintour; and Lifetime Tribute Award[50][67] (or Lifetime Recognition Award)[68][69] - John Fairchild, retired chairman and editorial director of Fairchild Publications. Special tributes for Princess Diana and Gianni Versace.[50]
- 1999: Lifetime of Glamour Award - Sophia Loren; Influence on Fashion Award - Cher; Humanitarian Award (posthumous) - Liz Tilberis; Eugenia Sheppard Award - Elsa Klensch of CNN;[52] Timeless Talent Award - Betsey Johnson;[70] Window on Fashion Award - Simon Doonan; and award "for putting the spotlight on Hollywood and fashion" - InStyle magazine.[53][71]
2000s
The CFDA's first "Fashion Icon Award" was given to American socialite C.Z. Guest in 2002.[72][73] The award was given to Nicole Kidman in 2003[74] and to Sarah Jessica Parker in 2004.[75][76] The CFDA decided to forgo the award in 2005, and instead gave the "Award for Fashion Influence" to Kate Moss.[76][77] In 2002, the CFDA Fashion Awards also began a 17-year partnership with Swarovski that ended in 2019.[20][78][79] In 2003, the awards for new designer talent, formerly known as the "Perry Ellis Awards", were renamed "Swarovski's Perry Ellis Awards" and included a monetary prize for the first time to reflect the sponsorship.[80][32]
| Year | Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award | Womenswear Designer | Menswear Designer | Accessory Designer | Emerging Talent Award | International Award | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2000 | Valentino | Oscar de la Renta | Helmut Lang | Richard Lambertson & John Truex for Lambertson Truex | Miguel Adrover (womenswear), John Varvatos (menswear), Dean Harris (accessories) | Jean-Paul Gaultier
( |
[81][82] |
| 2001 | Calvin Klein | Tom Ford | John Varvatos | Reed Krakoff for Coach | Daphne Gutierrez and Nicole Noselli for Bruce (womenswear), William Reid (menswear), Edmundo Castillo (accessories) | Nicolas Ghesquiere
( |
[83] |
| 2002 | Karl Lagerfeld and Grace Coddington | Narciso Rodriguez | Marc Jacobs | Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent | Rick Owens | Hedi Slimane
( |
[72] |
| 2003 | Anna Wintour | Narciso Rodriguez | Michael Kors | Marc Jacobs | Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler | Alexander McQueen | [74][84] |
| 2004 | Donna Karan | Carolina Herrera | Sean Combs for Sean John | Reed Krakoff for Coach | Zac Posen (ready-to-wear), Eugenia Kim (accessories) | Miuccia Prada
( |
[85][75] |
| 2005 | Diane von Fürstenberg | Vera Wang | John Varvatos | Marc Jacobs | Derek Lam (womenswear), Alexandre Plokhov for Cloak (menswear), Anthony Camargo and Nak Armstrong for Anthony Nak (accessories) | Alber Elbaz | [76][77] |
| 2006 | Stan Herman | Francisco Costa
for Calvin Klein |
Thom Browne | Tom Binns | Doo-Ri Chung (womenswear) and Jeff Halmos, Josia Lamberto-Egan, Sam Shipley, & John Whitledge for Trovata (menswear), Devi Kroell (accessories) | Olivier Theyskens | [86][87] |
| 2007 | Robert Lee Morris | Oscar de la Renta, and Lazaro Hernandez & Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler | Ralph Lauren (also awarded the American Fashion Legend Award) | Derek Lam | Phillip Lim (womenswear), David Neville & Marcus Wainwright for Rag & Bone (menswear), Jessie Randall for Loeffler Randall (accessories) | Pierre Cardin
( |
[88][89][90] |
| 2008 | Carolina Herrera | Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein | Tom Ford | Tory Burch | Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte (womenswear); Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders (menswear); Philip Crangi (accessories) | Dries van Noten
( |
[91] |
| 2009 | Anna Sui | Kate & Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte | Scott Sternberg for Band of Outsiders and Italo Zucchelli for Calvin Klein Collection | Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough for Proenza Schouler | Alexander Wang (womenswear); Tim Hamilton (menswear); Justin Giunta for Subversive Jewelry (accessories) | Marc Jacobs
( |
[92][93] |
2010s
2020s
| Year | Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award | Womenswear Designer | Menswear Designer | Accessory Designer | Emerging Talent Award | International Award | Fashion Icon | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 2023 | Maria Cornejo | Catherine Holstein for Khaite | Willy Chavarria | Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row | Diotima | Jonathan Anderson ( Great Britain) for JW Anderson and Loewe |
Serena Williams | [124][125] |
Programs
Summarize
Perspective
CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund
2010s Finalists and Winners
- 2014: Paul Andrew (Winner),[126] Wes Gordon, Edie Parker and Simon Miller
- 2015: Becca McCharen-Tran of Chromat; Rio Uribe of Gypsy Sport (Winner)[127]
- 2017: Chromat:[128] Becca McCharen-Tran (Runner Up), Telfar Clemens (Winner)[129]
- 2018: Kerby Jean-Raymond (Winner)[130][131]
- 2019: Abdul Abasi and Greg Rosborough of Abasi Rosborough; Alejandra Alonso Rojas; Victor Barragan of Barragán; Hillary Taymour of Collina Strada, Danielle Hirsch of Danielle Frankel; Raffaella Hanley of Lou Dallas; Siying Qu and Haoran Li of Private Policy; Reese Cooper; Natalie Ratabesi of Tre by Natalie Ratabesi; and Christopher John Rogers (Winner)[132]
2023 Return to Old Format
Tiffany & Co. x CFDA Jewelry Designer Award
Established in 2024, the CFDA partners with Tiffany & Co. for the stated purpose of recognizing and uplifting outstanding American jewelry designers who are committed to driving inclusivity with the design industry. Awarded recipients are selected by a committee of industry experts.[133]
2020s Finalists
- 2024: Angie Marei, David Perry, Ian Delucca, Jameel Mohammed, Hi Vu, Maggi Simpkins, Malyia McNaughton, Marvin Linares, Pamela Zamore, Symoné Currie[134]
CFDA {FASHION INCUBATOR} program
The 4.0 class (2016–2018) of the {FASHION INCUBATOR} includes Alexandra Alvarez of Alix, Aurora James of Brother Vellies, Charles Youssef, Daniel DuGoff of Ddugoff, Tim Joo and Dan Joo of Haerfest, Jason Alkire and Julie Alkire of Haus Alkire, Ji Oh, Katie deGuzman and Michael Miller of K/ller Collection, Thaddeus O'Neil, and Molly Yestadt of Yestadt Millinery.[135]
Fashion Manufacturing Initiative
The Fashion Manufacturing Initiative (FMI) is an investment fund to help revitalize New York City's garment industry. The program offers matching financial grants to New York City's fashion manufacturing production facilities.
In March 2018, the CFDA and NYCA announced that the following seven production facilities would receive a combined total of $480,000 in the fifth round of FMI grants: Atelier Amelia, Sunrise Studio, In Style USA, Mudo Fashion, New York Embroidery Studio, Season Wash, and Werkstatt.[136]
Fashion Targets Breast Cancer
Fashion Targets Breast Cancer® (FTBC), a charitable initiative of the CFDA/CFDA Foundation, seeks to raise public awareness and funds for the breast cancer cause.
The Fashion Targets Breast Cancer name and symbol were created by Ralph Lauren and subsequently entrusted to the CFDA Foundation. FTBC was first presented in the U.S. in the spring of 1994 during New York Fashion Week, and was formally launched in September 1994 at a special White House reception hosted by then-First Lady Hillary Clinton. During this initial campaign, 400,000 FTBC shirts were sold, raising $2 million to benefit the Nina Hyde Center for Breast Health at the Lombardi Cancer Center at Georgetown University Medical Center.[137]
Since 2011, the council has led an annual campaign to promote the initiative and partners with well known fashion icons. In 2017, Fabletics partnered with Fashion Targets Breast Cancer to produce an activewear collection. A portion of all sales for the collection would be donated to target breast cancer screening and treatment.[138][139]
Publications
Summarize
Perspective
The CFDA has published the following books, listed in order by publish date:
- American Fashion Home
- American Travel
- Scheips, Charlie (2007). American Fashion. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publishing. ISBN 978-2759401611.
- Hastreiter, Kim; Beene, Geoffrey (2008). Geoffrey Beene: An American Fashion Rebel. Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759402663.
- Pratts Price, Candy; Glasscock, Jessica; Tavee, Art (2008). American Fashion Accessories. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759402861.
- Marsh, Lisa; Stewart, Martha (2009). American Fashion Cookbook. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publisher. ISBN 9782759404056.
- Bryan, Robert E. (2009). American Fashion Menswear. Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759404094.
- Suqi, Rima A. (2010). American Fashion Designers at Home. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Assouline Publishing. ISBN 9782759404711.
- Mears, Patricia (2012). IMPACT: 50 Years of the CFDA. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419702310.
- Von Furstenberg, Diane; Alba, Jessica (2014). The Pursuit of Style: Advice and Musings from America's Top Fashion Designers. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419706219.
- Systrom, Kevin; Kolb, Steven (2015). Designers on Instagram: #fashion. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419715587.
- Moore, Booth (2018). American Runway: 75 Years of Fashion and the Front Row. Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Harry N. Abrams. ISBN 978-1419726484.
References
External links
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